A Small Seaside Delight - Piran - Istria

Keep some room in your heart for the unimaginable.

Mary Oliver

Panoramic view of Piran
First and last stop on my tour of Istria

Istria

Istria, where continental Croatia meets the Adriatic and where his majesty the largest white truffle in the world was found. Often referred to as Croatian Tuscany, (much like the west side of Slovenia was called Slovenian Tuscany), Istria is a heart-shaped peninsula, roughly the size of Rhode Island. 

The Istrian peninsula is the largest in Croatia.  It is located in its westernmost part, at the head of the Adriatic Sea.  The peninsula is shared by Croatia, Italy and Slovenia, though the most substantial part belongs to Croatia.  Istria sees nowhere near the level of crowds that Croatia’s more famous Dalmatian Coast receives.  The Adriatic Sea surrounds the peninsula on three sides, and the north of the region is entirely bordered by Slovenia.

Istria’s landscape is like art, a stunning canvas of rolling hills and sparkling seas.  They color your visit from vineyards that stretch like green seas to towns where every ancient stone tells a lengthy story.  When referring to the Istrian peninsula folks often talk about blue Istria (coastal) and green Istria (inland).

Blue Istria is filled with charming coastal towns and marinas, colorful Venetian houses, seafood restaurants, and stunning beaches with hues of blue, green and turquoise.  The Adriatic Sea maintains a comfortable 79°F (26°C) during the warm season from May well into October.  Many beaches are rocky rather than sandy, not always the most comfortable to access but not too crowded.  The smell of the sea or seafood accompanies you nearly everywhere you explore in Istria.   

Green Istria is where you’ll see vineyards, olive groves, dense evergreen maquis, meadows, oak or pine forests, photogenic medieval towns perched on cliffs, fertile agricultural landscape, while enjoying old traditional charm, pastoral calm, and a general rustic and homey vibe.

According to the Croatian census, there are over 500 villages in Istria and an average Istrian village has a community of about 100 people but can vary from 12 to 300 inhabitants.

Approximately 2/3 of the population of Istria is Croatian and most are engaged in agriculture.  Wheat, corn, rye, oats, figs, fruits, olives, grapes, fishing, and cattle.  Also, salt is obtained from local saltpans.

Istria is small but mighty with something interesting to see at every corner.  

On the way to Piran, stopped in Izola for a quick lunch
Views of water are enchanting

Coastal Town of Piran

While most coastal towns on the Adriatic Sea are tourist-centered and rather characterless, Piran has managed to keep its historic charm, remaining a vibrant, authentic community. Its Old Town is among the best-preserved anywhere in the Adriatic.  The pastel-colored Venetian homes and the narrow, cobbled alleyways add to its charming Mediterranean feel.

Piran is a sunny, terracotta-roofed jewel.  It was part of the Venetian empire for over 500 years, which explains the Italian influence on everything from the architecture to cuisine and language.

Catering to work or pleasure and lined with small fishing boats, sailboats and a few yachts, the intimate port of Piran is a good introduction to the rest of the city.  The docks, in places, are crowded with buckets full of fishing nets and some buoys.  The smell can be a bit fishy in places – but thanks to the sea breeze and the warm sun, not too intense.  I was here for two days and never saw anyone coming back with a catch of the day so I’m not sure just how active this port truly is nowadays.

As an ocean sailor, I enjoyed taking a relaxing stroll along the dock reading boat’s names, and seeing which ports/places they are registered from.  Further out, on the adjacent promenade, I watch numerous sun-tanners simply laying down or sitting, playing cards, reading books, wading in the shallow water, or smoking.  They have dark leathery skin from way too many years of sun exposure, a seemingly common trait with the locals. 

In terms of swimming, there are no sandy beaches in Piran, people just hop into the water from the cement path, ladders or off the rocks.  Some of the large protective rocks, along the promenade, have carvings illustrating sea creatures, a mermaid, seashells, or a turtle. 

I stayed at the small beachfront Hotel Piran built in 1913, only five steps from the Sea.  Its restaurant so close to the sea that a large swell, one morning, almost made it inside its covered patio.  It helped clean the seagrass that had accumulated along its façade overnight. I wonder how much longer they’ll be able to keep this part of the restaurant safe from the ravages of water.

Hotel Piran (renovated 2013) with glass paneled covered patio restaurant
Panels can be open so you feel the sea breeze while eating

View from my room in Piran
Great for watching sailboats, sunrises and sunsets

Early sunrise viewed from breakfast at patio of hotel
Notice the green and red buoys at the entrance of the marina, far left

Mermaid sculpture on the promenade

The Church of Our Lady of Health

Located on Cape Punta, the original church from 1274 was dedicated to St. Clement, the patron saint of sailors.  In 1632, during the plague epidemics, it became the Church of Our Lady of Health.  It was last rebuilt between 1773 and 1778 in the Baroque style.  The ceiling shows a light blue and white scene representing love (Caritas).  The altars are made of Carrara marble.  The attached belltower is exactly 40 feet (12.2m), a request of the Austrian military authorities of the 19^th century.  All furnishings and paintings are stored away while the church is being restored.  You can only see its interior through a grate at the front door, hence the poor picture I have of the ceiling fresco.

It acquired its present-day appearance after numerous renovations in the year 1773 and extensive restoration in the year 1890.  Attached to the back of the church is the Cape Punta lighthouse, an odd combination.  Although beautiful, I would certainly like to see it when it is completely renovated. 

You may recognize it as it was seen in the Netflix movie The Union (2022) with Halle Barry and Mark Wahlberg.

Church of Our Lady of Health (13^th century)
At the end of Cape Punta

Very simple and tiny Church of Our Lady of Health
Ceiling fresco representing love (Caritas) - about the only renovated portion so far

Walls of Piran

Significant parts of the fortification/defensive walls of Piran remain well-preserved thanks to extensive and continued renovation.  The third and largest one sits prominently above and on the East Side of Piran.  That wall has six towers and is so high above town, it offers amazing views.

Originally built to protect from the Ottoman invaders, Piran’s Town Walls were built in various stages from the 7^th to early 16^th century, responding to the city’s expansion.  Sections of the old town wall and seven gates still stand throughout various parts of Piran today.

I particularly liked seeing the whole town of Piran below, getting a better feel for its layout with a very blue Adriatic Sea beyond.  

From the top of the old fortification wall of Piran to the Adriatic Sea

One of the towers of the old fortification wall of Piran

View of Piran from the old protective wall

Church of St George

While Piran and its surroundings has more churches than I can count on my hands, the Church of St. George is the main one.  This 14^th century church dominates the seaside town of Piran with its beautiful 152 feet (46.45m) free-standing belltower.  From the outside, the Church of St. George is nothing special, but its interior is stunning.  At the top of the belltower is the rotating archangel, Michael.

There is an amazing view from the belltower after you climb its wooden rickety narrow +/- 150 stairs.  I had previously seen this church, Piran, and the Adriatic Sea from the defensive Town Wall so it was nice to now see the Town Wall, Piran, and the Adriatic Sea from this new viewpoint.  From the top of the Church Tower, you can actually see as far as three countries on a clear, sunny day – Slovenia, Italy and Croatia.

The original belltower stood in front of the church. In the early 17^th century, during an extensive reconstruction of the church complex, the old belltower was torn down. A new, freestanding campanile, set between the church presbytery and the baptistery, was erected between 1600 and 1615.

For centuries, the town of Piran was under Venetian rule.  Apparent in the design the Church of St George, also known as St. George’s Cathedral.  Originally built in the early 12^th century, its current structure dates from its expansion in the 14^th century.  By the 16^th century, the church had a completely new Renaissance appearance.  The look was completely Venetian, in fact, the free-standing belltower was designed as a small-scale replica of the just-completed St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice.  The church’s frescoes were painted by some of the best Venetian masters.  The reconstruction ended in 1637. 

Separate from the church and belltower you will find a Baroque baptistery (Church of St John the Baptist).  It is octagonal with a domed red tile roof and oculus.  The famous local violinist Tartini was baptized here.  The baptismal font is made from a repurposed Roman gravestone from the 1^st  century CE.  It depicts a winged boy riding a dolphin, an antique symbol of transition into the afterlife.  

St George's Cathedral, belltower, St John's baptistery (eight sided to the right)

Ornate interior of Baroque Church of St George

Nave with magnificent organ, Church of St George

Altar (1737) Church of St George

Ceiling fresco - Church of St George

St John's Baptistry - eight sided, next to Church of St George
Baptismal font made of Roman sarcophagus

Protective wall on top of hill viewed from the Church of St George
St John's Baptistry to the right

One of the supports under the Church of St George

Tartini Square viewed from St George's Belltower
White marble oval surrounded by black marble

Tartini Square – The Center of Town

The place where Tartini Square is located today, was once the harbor for the fishing boats of Piran.  Obsolete and silted up with sewage, the port was eventually cleared of debris, filled, and redeveloped into a real square in 1894. 

Named after violinist Giuseppe Tartini (1692-1770), one of Piran’s most famous native son, of whom a bronze sculpture was erected in 1896, its oval center is paved with white marble, surrounded by black.  Tartini was the first known owner of a violin made by Antonio Stradivari in 1715.  He was a teacher, a prolific composer and a music theorist. 

Tartini’s House is one of the oldest houses encircling the square. Municipal documents from the year 1384 mention it as the Gothic building ‘Casa Pizagrua’; later, its exterior was renovated in neoclassical style. Giuseppe Tartini was born in this house. The last time the house was renovated was between the years 1985 and 1991.  Today it is the seat of the Italian Community and the site of numerous cultural events and art workshops.

Only one building still has its original exterior, the Gothic Benečanka house.  Located at one corner of the Tartini Square, it is the most beautiful example of the Venetian-Gothic architecture in Piran. It was built in the middle of the 15^th century, thus the oldest preserved house here. Its exterior is decorated with exceedingly well-designed architectural elements and rich stone ornaments. The most distinctive is its Gothic corner balcony. Between the windows of the second floor there is an enclosed stone relief with a standing lion. Under the lion there is the inscription ‘Lassa pur dir’ (Let them talk). 

‘When Piran was under the Venetian Republic and the maritime trade was at its peak, many wealthy merchants came to make deals. That is how a prosperous venetian Del Bello fell in love with a young girl from Piran. In testimony of his love, Del Bello built the most beautiful house in town, by the harbor and the town hall. Jealous fellow citizens started to gossip. The gossip was so mean, the couple in their defense decided to put a stone plaque on the front side of the house saying: Let them talk.’

Lovely Venetian-Gothic Benečanka house facing the Tartini Square
Interesting corner balcony and ogee arched windows

Statue of Giuseppe Tartini, famous violinist and composer, in its namesake square
Belltower of St George Church in background

Tartini Square beyond the marina, at night

Although I have read and I am told Piran is not very touristic compared to its more well-known Dalmatian Coast, it is certainly more touristic than anywhere I toured in Slovenia.  I felt much more connected with Slovenia and its people than I do here.  It's probably due to the fact that I am in a coastal setting.  We'll see if this changes as I travel further inland.