Prejudice is an emotional commitment to ignorance.
Nathan Rutstein
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| Izola, Istria/Croatia - Known as The Kingdom of Fish Still apparent why today |
This time, I will be doing mountain biking instead of road biking, roughly following the Parenzana, a narrow-gauge railway line that used to connect Istria’s coastal towns in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy, between 1902 and 1935.
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| Rough outline of our bike route through Istria |
First by train from Postojna, then seated in an unmarked
taxi, crossing a small Italian checkpoint between Slovenia and Muggia, to avoid
additional search at the border, I am now happily in Muggia, a lovely small
fishing village overlooking the Gulf of Trieste.
I stretched my legs walking the multitude of narrow,
windy, and steep streets (calli), many of them one way, great for pedestrians
and bicycles, but not so great for vehicles.
It smells of fermenting grapes and figs mixed with roses, a strange aromatic
combination. The moment you set foot in
this quaint little town, you are swept away by its pure, refreshing air,
breathtaking scenery, and leisurely pace of life.
Vibrantly hued home facades lining the streets, display a kaleidoscope of
colors, many decorated with flowers, potted plants, or the weekly washing. I can see why this charming
location has been chosen to film a new movie, as seen by all the equipment around
town. Unfortunately for me that meant
some small areas were closed to the public but I still had a chance to see most
of magical Muggia.
Muggia is small (only 0.06% of Trieste’s population, across the way) and is the sole Istrian town that remains part of Italy. It doesn’t need much more than half a day to visit its ruins, old churches, museums, a castle, the lively piazza Marconi (campiello or square), while enjoying the presence of the locals who don’t seem to pay attention to tourists, speaking an interesting dialect revealing a powerful past with Venice (aka the Serenissima Republic). I read many reviews where people complain about not being specifically catered to by the locals, that they dare being themselves! I prefer it that way, however, be who you are, not what tourists think you should be.
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| Gulf of Trieste viewed from highest hill in Muggia The three straight lines in the water and to the left are protective wave breakers So shallow (60 feet-18m), that locals call it a lake |
Above the old fishing port of Muggia, at the top of
Monte Castellier (558 feet/170m), is a small archaeological park with the ruins
of the original Roman castrum dating to the 1st century BCE. Also in
the park is the beautiful Romanesque Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta. Some
elements of the current church date back to the 11th century, the rest of the building was rebuilt
in the 13th century. The building was restored between 1950 and
1951.
This area was once the old town of Muggia, it was first written about in 931 CE, but it was destroyed in the 14th century, leaving only the basilica. The church’s Marian devotions continued long after the town was abandoned in the mid-14th century in favor of a coastal settlement known as Burgus Lauri, where the town of Muggia stands today.
This stunning structure boasts a local sandstone
exterior and an astonishing three-nave interior adorned with a collection of
exquisite Byzantine frescoes dating back to the 13th, 14th,
and 15th centuries.
The pictorial works in the church were created by at
least three different painters. They illustrate various parts from the New
Testament, including the stories of Christ, the Assumption of Mary into heaven,
the four Evangelists, and an imposing Saint Christopher, who is the patron
saint of pilgrims.
From this park you can have a fantastic panoramic view
across the Bay of the Trieste and all the way to the Slovenian border.
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| Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, 13th Century How pristine it is |
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| On one of the columns inside the church St Mark, one of the four Evangelists painted here |
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| Mandracchio - small inland port |
Many colorful boats are tied in ‘mandracchios’, near sidewalks and streets, but don’t expect canals like Venice, although it feels like there should be some. A mandracchio is a typical inland port which is the core of this fishing village overlooking the bay. The name mandracchio comes from mandria, the Italian word for ‘herd’, since boats in a mandracchio were gathered like a herd, to occupy as little space as possible. The houses that are reflected in its waters and the small boats that find home there give it a wonderful feel that easily wins you over.
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| Not so mellow, yellow |
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| Another mandracchio |
Many Trieste residents come to Muggia on day trips and
I can see why. It’s only a short ferry or
bus ride away and it’s a bit like going back to a lesser stressful time.
It seems like every alleyway eventually leads you, not
to Rome, but to Piazza Marconi. I was happily surprised to see that the piazza
was full of locals. Kids on tricycles or
skateboards, others playing hide and seek or tag while the parents were having
a spritz or coffee nearby. Three
generations at the same table, sharing a meal or just a glass of wine. It felt non pretentious and real rather than
touristy. I stayed and people watched
for a while, completely absorbed by the locals just being locals.
The most recognizable buildings bordering it are the
Cathedral to St John and Paul and the Town Hall. Several cafés or restaurants also line its
edges.
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| Cathedral of St John and St Paul |
This Cathedral was consecrated at the very end of 1263.
It is characterized by its beautiful façade in Venetian Gothic Renaissance
style that is covered by large rectangular slabs of white Aurisina stone (beige
limestone). On each side of the imposing
portal are two elegant Gothic windows and above a beautiful sculpture in high
relief depicting the Trinity with the two Patron Saints John and Paul kneeling
on the side. In the upper part of the
façade of the Cathedral of Muggia you can see a beautiful rose window finely
decorated with a precious bas-relief in the center depicting the Virgin and
Child supported by 16 rays in red marble and white stone, as well as some
significant epigraphs relating to the history of this ancient building.
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| Municipal Town Hall aka Palace of the Rulers |
The charming Municipal Town Hall of Muggia (aka Palazzo dei Rettori or Palace of the Rulers), dates back to the thirteenth century and incorporates a clock tower erected in 1888. If you pay attention to the façade of the Town Hall you will not struggle to identify the coats of arms of the ancient local noble families and some Venetian podestà (magistracy) together with the Lion of St. Mark. It has been heavily restored through the years but it originates more or less to around 1420.
The
Lion of St Mark is evidence of the Venetian domination. It is mounted above the three arches on the
building's front. Notice that the Bible in the Lion of St Mark's paw is closed!
When the bible is open, it means Venice occupied the town peacefully. When the
bible is closed and the lion scowls, it means there was fighting here.
It has been heavily restored in the 19th and
20th centuries, but in its original form it dates back more or less
to the beginning of Venetian domination which lasted from 1420 to 1797.
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| I like pretty doorways |
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| Street view of a small chapel |
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