Town of Artists and The Master of Flavor - Buje, Grožnjan, Motovun - Istria

Do not become small for people who refuse to grow.

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Even stones become works of art in Grožnjan

Heading inland where the trails and towns are not as busy as the coastal area we just came from and where it gets a little warmer without the sea breeze, we are headed to Buje, Grožnjan, and Motovun.  Hillier, it is a tad more challenging for biking but the fantastic views, you see along the way, make you forget the work you put into getting around.  

Grožnjan

The town of Grožnjan suffered population declines after the railway stopped running in 1935, and fell even further after WWII. In 1965, though, Grožnjan was declared a ‘Town of Artists’ and underwent a welcomed revival. 

Being a town supportive of art and music, you enter through stone gates to step into a world of creativity and inspiration where the primary means of transportation is the bicycle, and the (un)official currency is the love of art.

A very pleasant little hilltop town with a medieval vibe it only has around 650 people calling it home.  From lovely konobas (aka trattorias) with home-cooked food to galleries, meander slowly in narrow cobble stone alleyways, looking at nautical themed sculptures, colorful shutters and plants, street signs made of ceramic, coat of arms, etc. 

The first mention of the fortified town of Grožnjan dates from 1102.  From 1358 to 1797, it was governed by Venice.  It overlooks the Mirna Valley and on a clear day you can see all the way to the Adriatic Sea.

In 1955, the then, almost deserted village, became part of the municipality of Buje and over the next few years several of its old properties were renovated.  In 1965, many of the homes were given to artists from Croatia and Slovenia who began renovating the buildings, reviving the town.

There are several of these small walled towns in Slovenia and Croatia but this one is different in the sense that it is geared much more artistically via music and visual arts. 

After it was declared ‘Town of Artists’ it became the residence of the ‘International Cultural Centre of Jeunesses Musicales Croatia’ in 1969.  Numerous artists are temporarily or permanently resident of Grožnjan and its surroundings, known as the ‘Grožnjan Art Circle’.  There are about 40 ateliers around the area.  Their work of arts can be seen around town and in its galleries.

Here, you can attend the International Painting Festival ‘Ex Tempore’ (Sept), the Jazz Festival ‘Jazz is Back’ (July - one of Europe’s best small jazz festivals) along with many other exhibitions, concerts, theater plays, and artistic courses.  Grožnjan is also a member of ‘Citta del Vino’ (Cities of Wine), and Cities of Olive Oil which you find for sale in a few places.

While having dinner at one of the konobas overlooking the valley below, we were serenaded by singers from the nearby school.  It was quite enchanting.  

The Castle, also first mentioned in 1102, is where the International Cultural Centre of Jeunesses Musicales Croatia is now located and where the music you hear often comes from.  The Fonticus, built in 1597, now houses an art gallery but it used to be a jail, a grain warehouse, and a loggia (open-air room).  The town gate is from the 15^th century.  The Stationary Office from 1492, the Old Smithy from 1406 (it was for rent when I visited), and the Parish Church was first mentioned in 1310 while its current appearance dates from 1748-70.

Grožnjan’s streets are like an open-air gallery or museum, filled with art and beautiful architecture.  At times, music from the music academy, surrounds you.  They often have dance and theater to round out the artistic values of this town.  It’s very hard not to feel inspired when visiting.  Worth a small detour if you are visiting the area.

Grožnjan as seen from across the valley

One of the entrances to Grožnjan

Very narrow streets, lots of greenery in Grožnjan

Water catchment

View from my room - oh so green
Boutique Hotel Artegnana - opened seasonally

This 1406 Smithy home for rent - can you imagine living in so much history!

Main mode of transportation is the bicycle - many decorative ones found around town

Neat road signage made of clay by hand

In the land of truffle shops, selling truffles, truffle oil, etc

Beyond the wall and glass bottles you see the reflection of the Adriatic Sea

Buje

With a population of around 3,000, Buje is more than a village but less than a city and is the largest town visited on my second day in Istria.  It overlooks some of Istria’s most fertile fields and productive vineyards.  A stroll on the promenade outside of its protective walls is a great way to appreciate the inspiring Istrian landscape. 

The area around Buje is known for unearthing the largest white truffle in the world (more on truffles below), quickly propelling that region to fame among culinary enthusiasts.  Top chefs recognize all types of Istrian truffles and have expert ways to use them in gastronomic masterpieces.  The best chefs are members of the Club Genuine Truffle or Tartufo Vero.  Look for this denomination to help you find the greatest places to eat dishes with the best and freshest truffles. 

The surrounding forested area of the Mirna Valley is where this ‘Istrian Gold’ is found and enjoyed with endless types of dishes.  We were served so many meals with truffles while in Istria that, towards the end, I began looking for meals without it.  There are times when there is too much of a good thing.

St Servulus Church

The original parish church of St Servulus was built in 1272 on the remains of the Roman Temple of Jupiter.  It was overhauled in the mid to late 1700’s in Baroque style and is now considered the most important of its kind in Istria. 

Next to the church is a tall belfry-belvedere built in the 15^th C, which throughout history served as a scout and sentry for the entire area.  Because of this, Buje is called the ‘Guardian of Istria’.   Being the highest in Istria, you can see four countries on a clear day: Slovenia, Italy, Croatia and Austria.

Buje, just a pit stop for lunch, waiting for the rain to stop
Interesting colors fading away

More of Buje's very old homes

St Servulus Church and Belfry
Hard to get good picture as there isn't enough room to get very far away from it

Inside St Servulus Church

Motovun

Motovun is a city-monument, an ancient Istrian fortified city situated, like so many others, on top of a hill, and whose current appearance originates from the 12^th and 13^th centuries.  The longest Istrian stairway with 1,052 steps leads to the top of the Motovun hill and its Venetian city square.  Surrounded by rich Gothic, Romanesque and Renaissance architectural heritage, I stayed at the Boutique Hotel Kaštel, ensconced inside a renovated 17^th century palace.

Vineyards are spread all around Motovun where the grapes for the famous Istrian wines Teran and Malvasia grow, while the Motovun forest, which spreads through the Mirna Valley is the habitat for the renowned underground truffles.  The sight of Motovun and the surrounding area in the early hours of the morning covered in a veil of fog, is magical. 

I have visited and stayed at 7 or 8 of these little top-of-the-hill Middle Age towns during my last three+ weeks of traveling in Slovenia and Croatia and this was by far the least interesting to me.  Too crowded, too touristic, not well laid out for parking and exploring.  Not much to see or do, especially on a rainy day.  To reach Motovun, I had the steepest hill yet to climb on this tour, made more difficult by biking on wet cobblestones.  I definitely deserved my rest once I got there. 

Unless you live in Motovun, you are not allowed to bring your vehicle into town. You have to take a shuttle or taxi, most offered by the hotel you’ll be staying at.  Thankfully we came by bike but while walking near the entrance of town I noticed just how much of a problem it could be for people – confusion, waiting lines, and general chaos trying to figure out how to get inside.  Not a good first impression of this town for newcomers.

The covered entrance to town has some artifacts hanging on its walls but the location makes it difficult to really see anything with all the comings and goings of people and local vehicles. 

Other than truffles and wines, Motovun is also known for its artisanal brandies made from local fruits by Aura, a family distillery.  Their most recognized product is Biska, a traditional brandy made from grape pomace and white mistletoe.  Its origin traces way back to Hum, Istria, and the ancient Celtic druidic magic that once thrived in that area.  The main ingredients are harvested in various parts of Istria and on some islands.  They also make a product called Teranino which is a liqueur made from black Teran wine and ten spices. 

There is a large mural of the giant Veli Jože (from a 1908 book of the same name by Vladimir Nazor).  He is a symbol of strength and power and represents Istrians struggling for equality and freedom.  His story is highlighted every September during a festival that celebrates ‘Fantasy Literature’.  The book could be considered similar to Lord of the Rings, written 40 years prior.

If it’s on your way, just do a short detour to see this place, otherwise not worth going out of the way.  You can see the whole place in a few hours.

Hilltop villages/towns look quite the same, here Motovun

Andrea Antico Square of Motovun viewed through archway
Church of St Stephen with yet another belltower

Konoba Mondo that Anthony Bourdain visited, his photo on left side window seal 
Larry Page, owner of Google, wanted to move this restaurant to San Francisco
since the food was so good.  The owner didn't accept that offer.

Coat of Arms of the Zusti Family (15th century)
Hung inside entrance of town

Lion of St Mark (15th century)

Mural of the giant Veli Jože

Motovun grocery store

Mario Andretti's childhood home (left), Formula 1 driver, 1978 winner
Motovun

Following the Parenzana

Also known as ‘The Route of Health and Friendship,’ the Parenzana was a narrow-gauge railway line between 1902 and 1935 that connected the towns of Trieste and Poreč.  It has been turned into the Parenzana Biking Trail and we followed some of it during this Istrian tour.

On its 76 mile (123k) route, the small train linked 33 towns from Trieste to Poreč, running in three countries: Italy –  8 miles (13k), Slovenia – 20 miles (32k) and Croatia –  48 miles (78k).

Although it operated only a little more than three decades, the small railway left an indelible mark on the entire area. As you pedal the Parenzana, you will see the stone arches of viaducts, crumbling train stations covered with vines, canyons carved by thunderous small rivers and dark tunnels rooted in steep wooded slopes. You will pass through countless beautiful valleys, green hills and forests, medieval towns, vineyards, and olive groves.  By going slower, you will have to opportunity to soak in the true flavor and character of Istria. A wonderful way to see parts of it.

Map of the Parenzana Trail

On the Parenzana Trail
Typical small village in the background - olives, grapes, and more

A bit closer - forest and orchards

His Majesty the Truffle of Istria – The Master of Flavor

''Motovun is situated at the heart of the world's largest habitat of white truffles, the Motovun Forest, making it only natural that truffles reign as the king on our table. Truffle is quite challenging to pair with any ingredient because whatever you add to the truffle, the truffle's unique flavor diminishes. For instance, our homemade ravioli with truffles, unlike most Istrian ravioli filled with cheese, are stuffed with celery and spinach to let the truffle flavor dominate.''

Klaudio Ivašić, owner of Konoba Mondo.

Istrian white truffles are one of the most renowned in the world.  They mature in autumn, and this rare delicacy is best tasted right away, freshly picked in its original environment. 

The truffle is the supreme delicacy that was enjoyed by Mesopotamian rulers 4,000 years ago, and it is still one of the most prestigious foodstuffs in world gastronomy. This intensely flavored royal mushroom was known to the ancient Greeks and the Roman emperors, and it was also served at the French Court and among the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy. It is rather rare and grows in some locations in France, Italy and Istria, favored by a mild climate, small temperature variations and grey clay soil.  Although some are now being cultivated, successfully or not is hard to know yet, in Australia, Europe, and North America.

The white and the black truffles have their natural habitat in the Istrian truffle-triangle between Pazin, Buje and Buzet, especially in the valley of the river Mirna and in the Motovun Forest. They grow underground, and they are searched after by specially trained dogs.

Truffles are a big moneymaker for those who know how to seek them out and market them.  Though among the lesser known truffle-growing regions, Istria produces seven or eight tons of truffles a year or 30% of the more common black truffles, which grows all year round, and 70% of the seasonal white truffles, which can only be found from September to December and fetches much higher prices.

It is regarded as an aphrodisiac, and called Istrian gold and the king of Istrian gastronomy.  Its intensive aroma is essential to the traditional Istrian cuisine. It is an enduring inspiration for appetizers, salads, egg dishes, main courses, sauces, infused oils or butters, and even desserts.

Truffles differ in shape, color, smell and flavor. Although there are around sixty types of truffles, in Istria you can find three pre-dominant distinctive types in terms of number and flavor.

Tuber Magnatum Pico - the white truffle

These truffles have a round yellowish body, covered with dark red spots. Their skin is smooth, or slightly warty, their inside is a pale cream color. You can find them near an oak, willow, poplar or linden. Due to their specific flavor and smell, they are proclaimed a culinary king. Their flavor is intense and garlicky, reminiscent of aged Parmesan cheese, making them perfect for shaving raw over dishes like pasta or eggs.  They are eaten raw. 

Tuber Melanosporum Vittadini - the black truffle

They are round and sometimes divided into lobes. Their coal-black skin is covered with flattened warts dented at the top and longitudinally grooved. Pick them near an oak, hazel or hop hornbeam. Due to their specific flavor and aromatic scent, they are highly regarded in culinary arts.  Black truffles have a milder, earthy scent with a touch of chocolate and a unique umami profile. Their flavor is rich and slightly nutty, less intense than white truffles, and they can be eater raw or cooked.

Tuber Aestivum Vittadini - the summer truffle

They are marked by a black-skinned round body covered with pyramidal, visible warts. This most frequent truffle in Istria can be found near an oak, hazel, poplar, beech or pine.  These truffles boast a light, delicate aroma and flavor, and are the most affordable variety of truffles available. Bursting with a nutty subtle notes of hazelnuts and almonds, creamy, and sweet tasting, these delicious delights are sure to tantalize your taste buds and make every meal special. 

Summer and early autumn is the time the black truffles grow  and during late autumn and winter the tastiest and expensive white truffles are taken out.  In October the Days of Truffles are celebrated in several places in the Mirna Valley.

Overall this area has a lot to offer to your tastebuds and art wise while traveling in a beautiful landscape.  From olive oil to brandy, from wine to truffles, from sculptures to music, from history to new biking trails, there is something for just about everyone here.