You will never see a U-Haul behind a hearse.
Denzel Washington
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| Oldest, still producing, Noble Grape Vine, in the world Over 450 years old |
Maribor is the second largest city in Slovenia. Yet, Maribor only has about a third of the population of the capital, Ljubljana, and often feels like a provincial town. Pleasantly designed to support pedestrians and bikes, rather than vehicles, it is a great place to visit at a leisurely pace.
Oldest Noble Vine in the world.
The vine of the ‘zametna crnina’ variety (Vitis
vinifera var. sativa) has been growing since the 1570’s. The over 450 year old Zametovka (aka Bleu de
Cologne) vine growing outside the Old Vine House in Maribor is registered in
the Guinness Book of Records as the oldest vine, still bearing fruit, in the world.
Can you imagine being a wine store, cave, and museum
with the oldest Noble Grapevine right in front of your establishment? The vine
is supported and protected by ironwork fencing and nice red poppies grace its base,
seasonally. It is obviously very well
taken care of, trimmed neatly and
expertly to follow along the lower edge of the second floor windows of the
building, following its contour perfectly.
Since 1963, when a dam was built on the Drava river,
serious problems arose for the Old Vine. As the level of the river began to
rise by more than ten feet (3m), the long-standing balance of the root system
became upset and the vine started to die slowly. Unprofessional care only
exacerbated its condition.
Fortunately, the old beauty was noticed by a group of
experts from the Institute of Agriculture.
They concentrated all their power in the revitalization of the
vine. The Old Vine had survived again, though this time its end had come
perilously close.
Today, the vine even has its own vintner who takes
care of it. The yearly harvest of around 75-120 pounds (35-55 kg) of grapes is made into wine and poured into 8.5 oz (.25 l)
bottles designed by famous artist Oskar Kogoj. The bottles are a valuable
protocol gift – only a hundred are filled every year!
It is customary to sing while drinking wine. Songs of love,
pain, happiness and truth. Which is why the Old Vine also has its own anthem,
and, as they say, you are not a true citizen of Maribor unless you know the Old
Vine Anthem (which I couldn’t find anywhere to share here…).
Imagine just how many skirmishes, fires, storms,
markets, festivals, musicians, people passing by it has witnessed!!! Maribor’s wine history is such an intricate
part of the city that it also boasts a huge underground wine cellar covering an
area of 215,275 sq feet (20,000 sq m).
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| Maribor on both sides of this pedestrian bridge Swans floating on the Drava River |
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| Showing some love in a window |
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| Meandering through a narrow cobblestone alleyway and history |
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| A bit of morning fog in the valley |
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| Biking by the Drava River Our tour guide expertly took pictures of us while biking, too dangerous for me to do |
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| Doors chained together |
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| Hotel Maribor facing Cobblestoned main square with water fountain and cafés |
Maribor Cathedral Bell Tower
Because of their height, church bell towers often
served as observatories, from which city watchers would warn the citizens about
approaching dangers, such as military attacks or, in the case of Maribor’s
Cathedral, mostly fires. From the number
of times the bell rang and the time that elapsed in between, it was possible to
determine the location of the fire which was additionally signaled by hanging a
flag from the belltower, substituted by a lamp at night. The tower eventually acquired a telephone
connection in the late 1800’s.
In 1924, Antonia Weiss was chosen as a watcher. It was unusual in those times for a woman to
perform such an important function but in the years prior to becoming a
watcher, Antonia had often covered for her father-in-law and thus
had experience in this line of work. She
watched over the city until 1933 when the post was dismissed. The small space is now a museum accessed by climbing
162 stairs.
Its 187 feet (57m) high classicist designed dates back to the end of the 18th century. The original 250 feet (76m) high bell tower built in the year 1623 was often struck by lightning and damaged by fire. For safety reasons, the city shortened that bell tower down an impressive 63 feet (19m).
In 1933, the city authorities closed the fire watch,
and the last fire watcher Antonia Wiess was, hmmm, not a play on words, but
truly, she was … fired.
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| Bell, or previously Fire, Tower Maribor Cathedral |
Franciscan Church or The Basilica of Our
Mother of Mercy
The church interior is decorated with various magnificent details with the main altar made of 17 different types of marble, gilded bronze, enamel, brass and crystal, its most prominent element.
This magnificent basilica is dedicated to Mary, Our Mother of Mercy, and characterized by its red clinker façade and two very tall towers. It was constructed at the turn of the 20th century on the site of the Capuchin monastery of the 17th century.
The basilica was built in the neo-Roman style and has an east-west orientation with a twist: the main entrance faces east, towards the suburbs, while the presbytery with the main altar is located in the west. By contrast, most churches have the opposite orientation, with the main portal at the west end and the presbytery at the east.
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| Massive Franciscan Church of St. Mary, Our Mother of Mercy |
Water Tower
The Maribor Water Tower is a medieval fortified tower.
The late-Renaissance tower stands by the Drava River and dates from 1555. It is
of pentagonal form and consists of massive stone blocks interspersed with
embrasures. It was built to secure the southeast part of the Maribor city walls
from the direction of the river.
During the 1960’s, the Drava was dammed for and Hydroelectric
Plant, causing the water levels to rise. Much of the old urban core of Maribor
was due to be submerged by the resultant reservoir, including the Water Tower,
which was originally slated for demolition so as not to pose a hazard to
navigation.
Between 1966 and 1967, another tower and many medieval
houses on the riverbanks were torn down, but the position of the Water Tower
made it a better prospect for salvageability. The tower was saved by the
efforts of builder Jože Požauk (1908–1995), who directed a project to raise the
1500 ton mass by 8.5 feet (2.6m) over seven months in 1967-68.
At present, the Water Tower houses a wine shop which
specializes in top quality Slovenian wines. It is Slovenia's oldest wine cellar
where you can enjoy wine tastings while appreciating a wonderful view of the
Drava River.
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| Ancient water tower, 1555 |
Judgment Tower
The two-story defense tower was built on a circular
floor plan, with a triple-layered, conical roof of brick shingles. The facade
is smooth, interrupted only by windows with wooden frames. A double barrel vaulted
ceiling divides the ground floor from the upper floor. The rest of the
furnishings (wooden floors, stairs, balconies) were destroyed. It is the oldest part of Maribor's city
walls, which once protected the city.
The Judgment Tower, or Harbor Tower as it is also
called, is a clear example of defense architecture. Its stockier, squarer
predecessor was built in 1310, but razed in 1532. From 1548 to 1562, the same
Italian engineers who constructed the Hall were employed in building the
Judgement Tower anew. At the time it was one story lower, but similarly covered
with a conical roof. They raised it in the 19th century and
converted it into a storage space. It burned in 1937, with the roof and wooden
floors collapsing as a result. Restoration lasted from 1957 to 1960, when they
refurbished the ceilings and roof. It was completely renovated again in 2021
and repurposed as a cultural event venue.
Today, the Judgement Tower showcases a blend of medieval and
reconstructed elements, offering visitors a glimpse into its storied past.
It got its name from the time when sentences were
pronounced in it. It is also linked to
the trials of witches, as it was here that sentences were pronounced on women
who were perceived as being witches. Due to its shape the Judgement Tower is
also known as the Round Tower.
Just like the Water Tower, the Judgement Tower is an important monument to
defensive architecture and a treasured feature of the city’s western skyline
with its medieval wall.
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| Judgment, Harbor, or Round Tower, 1310 |
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| Swans expecting food |
Maribor’s Main Square is home to an important historical monument, the Plague Memorial, also known as the Plague Column. Constructed between 1743 and 1745, this solemn monument honors the end of a devastating plague epidemic that struck the city in 1680, killing at least 1/3 of its population, serving as a poignant reminder of the toll such diseases took throughout Europe in bygone centuries.
This baroque column is dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
also revered as Mary, Helper of Christians, a protector commonly invoked
against diseases. The tradition of erecting such monuments by pious burghers (member of bourgeoisie), following
the cessation of plague epidemics was prevalent in Central Europe during the 17th
and 18th centuries.
Atop the column, a statue of the Virgin Mary stands on
a cloud, crowned with twelve stars, standing on the moon while vanquishing a
dragon beneath her feet. Symbolically, the dragon represents evil and disease,
while Mary embodies divine protection and mercy. Around the column’s base,
smaller statues of saints who were sought for protection against the
plague and other calamities can be seen. These include St. Francis of Assisi, St.
Sebastian, St. James, St. Anthony of Padua, St. Roch, St. Francis Xavier, each
depicted with their traditional attributes, like arrows for Saint Sebastian and
a dog with bread for Saint Roch.
The Plague Memorial transcends mere religious artistry; it is a historical artifact bearing symbolic significance. It stands as an enduring testament to Maribor’s resilience amid adversity, a memorial for those claimed by the plague, and a narrative of survivors’ deep faith and gratitude, who erected the column in thankful relief at the epidemic’s end.
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| The Bubonic Plague Memorial Which claimed 1/3 of the population in the 15th century |
Mestni Park
Most of the trees in the park are over 140 years old and, since 1976, the area is protected as a landscape monument. Maribor’s protective moats used to be located here, now replaced by three ponds. Many sculptures can also be enjoyed while walking through this large park, recognized as one of the best in Europe.
As with many other parks, it is surrounded by majestic old homes of previous nobility. |
| Mestni Park, sculpture, trails, ponds, etc. |
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| Very fancy home by the town's main Mestni Park |
Pyramid Hill and Upper Maribor Castle
Research of this old castle was first conducted in
1985. The Upper Maribor Castle was
erected at the beginning of the 12th century and it was in use until the
end of the 18th century, when it was dismantled. In order to build the castle, the hill itself
was used as a quarry. After abandoning
the castle in 1784, the castle itself became a kind of quarry, as most of the
stone blocks were used for the construction of some buildings in Maribor and
vicinity.
At the site was found: a cellar with a vault, probably
used for wine storage which was produced from the vines planted on the hill
itself, a system of run-through water cisterns as deep as 25 feet (7.6m), an arcade,
a bread oven, a fireplace. More modern
construction period (17th century) was of bricks or bricks mixed with
stones, rather than stones only.
The path, which rises above the city park along the
southern slope of the hill, is abundant with grape vines. From that hill, where
once the Upper Maribor Castle used to stand, you can enjoy a wonderful view of
the vines on the slopes and of the whole city.
The noble Spanheim family built the castle at the
beginning of the 12th century for protection against the Hungarians. In
the year 1528 the castle burnt down. Around the year 1560 it was renovated in a
Renaissance style, then in 1784 it was finally pulled down.
From the remains of the building materials a stone
pyramid was built, which also gave the hill its name - Piramida. The only
remains of the castle are a trench with a steep embankment and a well without a
rim.
At the top of the rampart stands a classicist chapel
with a stone statue of Mary dating from the year 1821. The inscription on the
memorial plaque inside the chapel testifies that in the year 1821 lightning
destroyed the original pyramid. The chapel was erected in
memory of the location of the old castle.
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| Chapel of Mary (1821) on Pyramid Hill |
First researches of the Roman tomb were in 1961. The burial mound dates from the Roman era, about
100 CE. The Romans put glass or clay urns with the ashes of the deceased, and
the offerings for the journey in a tomb, which was placed on the surface. In
these burial mounds (backfilled tombs) they buried people of different classes.
This mound was reconstructed and restored in 2002 to
display to visitors.
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| Burial Mound from the Roman era |
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| Entrance to Burial Mound |
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