Lewis Carroll
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| Ptuj City Tower, a sentinel over the oldest recorded city in Slovenia |
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| At the base of the City Tower, ancient stone monuments are built into its walls An open-air lapidary museum |
Built in 1556 by Antonio de Pivo, this mighty Renaissance City Tower, the work
of Italian master builders, with its
characteristic early 18th century Baroque onion-domed roof,
dominates Ptuj’s city center from all sides.
In 1830, the curate Simon Povoden had ancient
monuments from Ptuj and the surrounding area built into the walls of the
tower. The Povodnov Museum is the oldest
open-air lapidary museum in Slovenia. Throughout
the year, visitors can view original Roman civil and military tombstones,
dedication plates and sacrificial altars.
Check out the reliefs of Medusa’s head, dolphins, a man with grapes, a
lion and a man on horseback.
An attentive visitor will notice that the tower only
has a clock on three sides. Citizens decided not to put a clock on the wall
facing the castle as a sign of protest when the lords of the castle refused to
pay their share.
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| More ancient artifacts built into the outdoor wall |
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| Ptuj viewed from the other side of the Drava River |
In this valley, the ancient Amber Road between the
North Sea, the Padua lowland (Italy) and the Mediterranean existed for
centuries. At the intersection of these
important waterways and roads, Poetovio (Ptuj) became one of the largest
centers in Pannonia. In the peaceful
period of the 2nd century, Poetovio developed into a blossoming
regional city.
Poetovio was included in the Roman Empire during
Augustus’ conquest of Pannonia around 15th C BCE. Ptuj’s history spans over two millennia. Once a significant military
stronghold and trade center, Ptuj was known as Poetovio during Roman times. Its
strategic location along the Drava River enabled it to flourish as a hub for
both trade and defense.
Over the centuries, Ptuj witnessed various invasions
and rulers, including the Huns, Ostrogoths, Magyars, and the Holy Roman Empire.
Each of these successive powers left their mark on the town, contributing to
Ptuj’s rich cultural tapestry and architectural legacy.
Ptuj is the oldest recorded city in Slovenia. There is
evidence that it has been inhabited since the late Stone Age. It has been settled since antiquity, and is
considered the oldest pre-urban town settlement mentioned in Carolingian
documents as town – civitas.
Three major fires ravaged this town: 1684, 1705, and 1744. After each fire, the houses underwent
changes, renovation and got a new appearance, and only here and there remains
of Roman and Gothic elements can still be found.
The area went from a leather district (1291) to
milling, tanning, fishing, freighting, music school, warehousing, military, textile,
pottery as well as metallurgical and glass works.
In its heyday (until the 4th century), it
was one of the largest and most important towns between the Adriatic Sea and
the border on the Danube, counting about 40,000 inhabitants (as many as London at that time). It was also very modern for its time. Houses of wealthy people had their own
bathing facilities decorated with columns (peristylum) and a sewage
system. In the cold season, houses were
heated by means of central heating (hypocaustum). Walls were painted with colorful frescoes and
decorated with stucco and marble, while the floors bore mosaic ornamentations.
Archaeological findings comprised drinking vessels,
amphorae, cups, worshipping of gods that protect viticulture, and the cult of
wine show a relatively high level of wine culture which is still present today.
Small enough to see in a couple of days, Ptuj is worth a visit.
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| Hotel Mitra where I stayed They have information about Mithraism |
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| Osterberger's Wine Cellar in hotel Mitra Almost 1,000 years old |
The uniqueness of the Ptuj wine growing region was
recognized already by the Romans, and several Ptuj merchants made their fortune
trading wine. It is thus no coincidence
that Ptuj has the oldest wine cellar in Slovenia. This wine cellar keeps a very special
treasure – the oldest Slovenian wine.
The Osterberger Wine Cellar is almost a thousand years
old, now that’s history. The wine cellar
itself was not in use from 1945 to 2008. When the building became private in 1991,
the cellar was not restored, as the necessary work was deemed too demanding. It
was only in 2008 that it was tackled and restored to its original purpose.
It was a very special place to taste several delicious
local wines.
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| Kipertz Café and roaster in Hotel Mitra Oldest café in Ptuj, since 1809 |
Coffee roasting mills and coffee shops are a defining
part of Ptuj’s rich history and it began in Hotel Mitra where the family owned
Kipertz Café – the first coffee roasters in Ptuj – was founded in 1785 and is
still open to this day.
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| Altar of Mithra carrying a bull Symbol of painful journey of human sufferings to higher status of soul and life. Dating back to the 2nd century CE |
Mithra is the Persian God of Light and guardian against evil forces. Mithraism is a religion that developed out of an Ancient Persian belief based on the eternal struggle between good and evil, life and death, and the power of salvation through offerings.
The righteous God of Light, Sol, had his ambassador
Mithra on earth. Mithra was born out of
the rock, and a raven brough him a message from the god about sacrificing a
bull. The altarpieces depict him at the
offering, killing a white bull. On the
side are Kautes with a raised torch (light, birth), and Kautopates with a
lowered torch (darkness, death), symbolically depicted are a snake (earth) and
a dog (loyalty), that feed from the victim’s blood, and a scorpion (malice)
that bites the bull’s genitals.
Mithra was worshiped mainly by Roman soldiers and some military emperors in the late period of the Roman Empire. Five Mithra shrines, called Mithraeums, were found in Ptuj and its surroundings since the town was the European center of Mithraism in the first centuries CE. Mithraism was propagated by the Emperors as the Mithras was a model of heroism.
Mithraeum are the same everywhere. They consistently follow the tradition of the
first Mithraeum in the mountains of Persia.
Built in a cave, designed as the universe, created by Mithras .
Mithraeum is therefore ‘a cave’, always understood as
the universe with all the laws, which ruled its entirety, as they were
understood in antiquity. Entering the
Mithras sanctuary always meant entering into the universe and the sacred
geometry of the cosmos. Its outer
appearance was therefore not important. The entrance to the Mithraeum could be
especially emphasized by a pair of pillars, and often descending stairs
(usually seven) – to the underground, into the cave. In the cave (or temple) was also the source
of water, or symbolically its image.
Each Mithraeum is the place of ritual gathering exclusively
male members. Congregations of the
Mithraists were always small, and consequently the Mithras sanctuaries were
never very large. If the number of
believers increased, the Mithraists preferred a new group of believers to build
a new Mithraeum. A Mithraeum always had
a raised podium on which the Mithraists were lying during the rituals. Inside, statues, reliefs and altars were
discovered, the number of which was undoubtedly dependent on the wealth of a
particular religious community and its religious needs.
Interesting fact: Mithra was born on December 25th.
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| Ptuj City Hall, each window decorated with flowers |
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| Interesting curves on this building |
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| Nice architecture and at right Orpheus Pillary Originally tombstone of Mayor of Ptuj in 2nd century CE Part of open-air museum |
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| Sun God (copy) from 3rd century CE More open-air museum near Dominican Monastery |
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| I love the idea of managing incoming traffic with these cylinders that go down to let you in after it reads your license plate if you are an approved local Very pedestrian friendly as few vehicles get through |
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| Gorgeous Baroque Dominican Monastery from 13th century |
The Dominican Monastery was
established in 1230, and was the first monastery belonging to the Dominican
order in Slovenian territory. The
construction of the monastery shows different stages. In 1302, it caught fire, and its renovation
in the Gothic style lasted until the mid-14th century. At the end of the 17th and in the
18th centuries, during reconstruction work, the monastery got its
present Baroque appearance. Emperor
Joseph II suppressed the Dominican Monastery in 1786. The building passed into the hands of the military
and was turned into a military lazaret (quarantine) hospital.
In 1928, the Town Municipality
of Ptuj bought the monastery to install some apartments and a museum
there. The museum and archaeological
collections used the monastery building until 2012 when a thorough reconstruction
of the entire monastery complex began. The partially finished restoration
procedures turned the former monastery into a congress-cultural center.
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| They do like pink out here. |
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| Kurent Figure Most recognizable carnival character since 1880 Part of tradition listed on UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage |
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| This elaborate costume can way up to 55 pounds (25k) and is worn for 24 hours during Kurent, which celebrates the end of winter and the beginning of spring |
In the mid-20th Century, traditional
village carnival customs were quickly disappearing from the Slovenian
landscape. To keep these practices alive, a modern festival was created in
Ptuj. The masked rite of spring known as Kurentovanje has been held in an organized
fashion since 1960, every February for ten days leading up to Shrove Tuesday.
It is the most popular ‘Mardi Gras’ celebration in Slovenia, with the majority
of its events centered around Ptuj.
In Kurentovanje, the Kurent (or Korent/Korant) is a
mythical god from Slovenian folklore known for his debauchery. The Kurent
represents fertility in several realms: agricultural, animal, and human, and is
therefore the perfect figure to ring in springtime.
Its origins are mysterious and shrouded in centuries
of secrecy. It has been associated with Slavic, Illyrian, Celtic, Greek and
Roman mythology. Kurent’s mission can be traced to the symbolism of natural
phenomena, the anticipation of spring and Ancient Roman rituals resembling
Carnival traditions. Kurent’s season symbolically comes between two Christian
holidays – Candlemas and Ash Wednesday. According to tradition, kurenti (plural
of kurent) drive away evil and bring better times to the land, be it in the
form of prosperity, warm spring or abundant harvest.
With the loud shaking of their cowbells the kurenti drive
away winter and evil from the land while inviting spring and a good year. Young
bachelors have honored this ancient fertility rite since time immemorial. At
one time they also honored deceased relatives, and reverence was offered to the
spirits.
In general, the kurent resembles a hirsute demon, is
clothed in sheepskin, and around his belt hang large cowbells and beautifully
embroidered handkerchiefs are attached to the stick they all carry. He wears a
mask on his head and gaiters on his legs. Kurents collect these handkerchiefs
from girls, and those with more handkerchiefs enjoy greater prestige. Traditionally
the young kurent lads would also get their colorful wool socks from their
girlfriends.
One of the special things about Kurentovanje is that
each village and town has its own traditions. Kurenti from one village are
recognized by their feathers, while those from another are known for their
horns. Most are made of sheepskin, though some use rabbit fur, and typically
have masks with long red tongues. All carry wooden sticks.
Groups consisting of Kurenti and one or more devils
run from house to house, form a circle in the yard and jump around the owners. After
they hop around women, they will tie a handkerchief on their jezevka, the
wooden bats they carry.
The kurent’s headgear is made of tanned or sometimes
even dyed leather, with openings for the eyes, nose and mouth. Over time people
started adorning their headgear with various types of feathers. The eyes and
mouth are ringed with red, while the nose is shaped as a leather snout. Jutting
from the headpiece are two cow horns or feathers and sticks. A kurent’s fearful
appearance is further enhanced by his club.
Some outfits weigh as much as 55 pounds (25k) and must be worn for a
whole day without a break. Only the
strongest can do it. On the last day of
the carnival period, the Carnival mask is burned and buried.
At one time the kurenti were just young, unmarried
men, but nowadays women and children
also dress up as kurenti. The Kurent Ethnographic Society explains that the
ritual changed into a mass ‘veneration of the Carnival time,’ and the
development of the costume gave rise to a period of mass participation. Greater
participation led to a break with the traditional rule that only bachelors
could wear the costume, and today you can encounter people of all ages and
genders in kurent gear. ‘The children are what drives us,’ notes the
society, ‘the society is principally intended for them. We want to make it
possible for them to recognize the character and ritual as part of the
Slovenian cultural identity, and to present it with pride around the world.’
Door to door rounds of Kurent were inscribed on UNESCO’s
list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2017. Kurentovanje is Slovenia's most popular and
ethnologically significant carnival and draws around 100,000 participants each
year. In 2016, it was proclaimed the 7th largest carnival in the
world by Lonely Planet.
If you have the opportunity to visit Ptuj in late winter, don’t miss the traditional Kurentovanje Festival. Experience the town coming alive with vibrant parades, colorful costumes, and lively music as locals and visitors alike celebrate this ancient tradition. Immerse yourself in the vibrant spirit of Ptuj’s cultural heritage, join the festivities, and witness this unique fusion of history, culture, and joyful revelry.
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