Spain – Long Overdue

Like most people, 

what I find irritating in others are my own faults.

Jools Holland

Andy Warhol’s Muhammad Ali (1977-78)

During this period, Ali was the World Boxing Champion for a third time

Capitalization on public fascination with violence in a poignant way

I like the juxtaposition of a frail lady in front of these paintings 

Caixa Forum Museum

Mid-April 2018, returning from Africa via Spain, not expecting it to be so cold, dark and rainy, even snowy in the nearby mountains.  The cause, says the media, a very weak Gulf Stream, the weakest since 1650 (did they really track the history of the Gulf Stream that far back?)  

Thanks to a borrowed umbrella, discovering fortunately continues.  After drought stricken South Africa, with Cape Town’s famous ‘day zero’, things look contrastingly green and fresh with multiple cleansing rains.

Madrid

Starting with Madrid, a very walkable city in the center of Spain, before heading to the beautiful countryside of La Coruña, Galicia, on the Atlantic side of the country, just above Portugal.  

Templo de Debod, 2^nd century BCE, dedicated to the Goddess Isis

Gift from Egypt, as a sign of gratitude for needed help provided by Spain

Installed in 1970-72, but not the same way it was laid out when in Egypt

Near Royal Palace of Madrid.  Lovely, even on a rainy day

Following recommendations from a local friend usually makes visiting more relaxed.  However, a minor comment she makes gives me a slight pause.  Before I venture out, she asks me if I know what ‘piropos’ are?  I am, after living in and out of Mexico for many years, indeed aware of what they are.  Is she trying to warn/protect me? 

Piropos are sexual/amorous ‘compliments’ by men to women on the streets.  What used to be seen as flattery, is now mostly perceived as rude.  It was interesting to be warned about such a thing, especially for a woman of retired age… Piropos could be considered pick-up lines.  They range from beautiful and romantic to silly and juvenile.  On rainy days however, I didn’t hear any, not surprisingly…

Plaza Mayor, Madrid

Statue of Philip III (foreground)

1992 frescoes by Carlos Franco on Casa de la Panaderia (background)

Over time, place of markets, bullfights, soccer games, public executions

Frescoes by Carlos Franco on Casa de la Panaderia (bakery house)

With figures such as signs of the zodiac and gods: Cybele, Dionysus, Cupid, etc.

237 wrought iron balconies surround the plaza

Mercado San Miguel, 1916

Genuine culinary center with more than 30 vendors

The finest products and wines from the length and breadth of Spain

Extremely busy with 10 million visitors per year!

Reopened 2009 after major renovation.

Today it is the last iron and glass market hall in Madrid.

La Catedral de Santa Maria La Real de La Almudena

Viewed from El Palacio Real de Madrid

Only Spanish Cathedral consecrated by a pope

Facing N-S instead of the traditional E-W as part of palace’s design

Built from 1883-1993 because Toledo didn’t want to relinquish to Madrid

Plaza de la Armeria and the Palacio Real de Madrid viewed from

La Catedral de Santa Maria La Real de la Almudena

Not a residence but a place for ceremonies, official banquets, and state functions

All vaulted in stones and bricks to avoid fires.

Trying to imitate Versailles, one of the finest in Europe

Contains 3,418 rooms!

Palace’s Pastry Workshop

King’s kitchen located underground

Hundreds of copper molds

Palace’s Ante-Kitchen or Preparation Room

Palace’s Large Kitchen or Cooker Room

Huge oven (one of two), fire on all the time, just in case…

The King’s kitchen fed the king and member of the royalty

Leftovers were eaten by the courtiers

The palace’s kitchen has seen generations of royalty members.  It is said, 'A spectacle truly worthy of admiration was the sight of those spacious rooms bursting with crockery, tableware and equipment, both ancient and modern, where copper struck the leading note with its glowing, bright color.  Everything was clean, gleaming and tidy ordered by a small army of cooks…  The burners were never extinguished and there were always two kitchen boys on duty to watch over them and attend to any eventuality that might crop up during the night. '

Calls such as: ‘Breakfast for his highness the Prince of Asturias’, ‘Coffee and toast for his excellency the commander-general of the Halberdiers’, ‘Sherry and biscuits for his most excellent lord the grandee of Spain in service’, ‘Consommé for the most serene infanta Doña Isabel’, ‘Tea for the chamber of her majesty Queen Maria Cristina and another four people…’

Palace’s Armory – Plaza de la Armeria

Armors from the 1500-1600’s.

Hailed as the best European collection together with the Imperial Armory of Vienna

Amazing examples of armors for horses, soldiers, and

even small children of the monarchy

Also shows diplomatic works of art such as tapestries,

paintings, and trophies

After meal, mistela served from a poron with dried or candied fruits

Poron made so people could drink from it without touching the spout with their mouth

Dessert wine made with Muscat grape juice, brandy, cloves, coffee beans

Atosha Train Station - - - Beautiful outside

As well as inside.  Even a pond area where ducks and turtles are found

Sign asks people not to abandon animals, please…

Looks like too many people abandoned their pet turtles here

Caixa Forum’s Green Wall next to Contemporary unit

Old power station turned museum

Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe (1967)

Created five years after her death

Brightly colored to reflect her vivacious personality

I like the serious female guard dressed in all black as contrast

Andy Warhol’s Coca-Cola Bottles (1962)

Like the US dollar, Coca-Cola is ubiquitous, mass produced, 
distinctly American, and the most recognized brand globally.

A coke is a coke and no amount of money can get you a better coke

than the one the bum on the corner is drinking.

All the cokes are the same and all the cokes are good.

Liz Taylor knows it, the President knows it, the bum knows it, you know it.

‘I just paint things I always thought were beautiful, 

things you use every day and never think about.’ 

Andy Warhol

Andy Warhol’s S&H Stamps (1965)

‘This work can be seen to highlight qualities of mechanical reproduction, 
repetition, sterilization, raising issues concerning authorship, 
artistic originality, and the concept

of infinite ‘reproductivity’.  Walter Benjamin

Akin to his depersonalized productions like 
Campbell’s soup cans or Brillo pads boxes

Andy Warhol’s Cow Heads Wallpaper (1966)

Caixa Forum geometrical stairway complements the look of the artwork

‘Super-pastoral, ridiculous, blazingly bright and vulgar.’

Ivan Karp, art dealer

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia

Salvador Dali’s The Great Masturbator (1929)

Autobiographical painting of his sexual obsessions

Fernand Léger and Charlotte Perriand

Essential Happiness, New Pleasures (1937)

Mural of bold utopian vision of rural life

Shown along with Guernica (below)

Pablo Picasso’s Guernica (1937)

Probably Picasso's most famous work, Guernica is his most powerful political statement, painted as an immediate reaction to the Nazi's devastating casual bombing on the Basque town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War.  According to some, Guernica shows the heartbreaks of war and the suffering it inflicts upon individuals, particularly innocent civilians. This work has become a perpetual reminder of the tragedies of war, an anti-war symbol, and an embodiment of peace.

While Picasso was living in Nazi-occupied Paris during World War II, one German officer allegedly asked him, upon seeing a photo of Guernica in his apartment, ‘Did you do that?’ Picasso responded, ‘No, you did.’  Picasso completed this massive mural in only thirty or so days.

Today, no longer thought of as representing the Spanish Civil war but much more about a self-portrait with his family. That kind of information, whether you believe it or not, needs to be presented so people have the full spectrum of what is thought about this famous painting.  

Andy Warhol’s Piss or Oxidation Paintings (1977-78)

Gesso, copper paint, urine.

Praised as novel step in artistic experimentation or considered the worst of his work.

Using his own urine or that of assistants, friends or visitors.

Looked for various food enhancing color of urine – yellower from vitamin B for example.

Playing on phallic symbolism substituting paint brushes with sexual organs

‘Aesthetic form achieved using bodily fluids and not any fluid 
but the one considered a waste, complicates their interpretation
and positions oxidation paintings between the discourses 
dealing with social divisions, artistic experimentations 
with body, abstract art, and finally eroticism.’  Eli Anapur

In 1992 the painting was moved to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Spain’s newly established national museum dedicated to 20th-century art. The move was controversial since it defied Picasso’s expressed desire that his painting hang amid the Prado’s great masterpieces.

Royal Botanical Garden – Solitary red tulip on a rainy day

By Colombian artist Fernando Botero, Woman with Mirror

On the streets of Madrid inside very busy traffic triangle near Plaza de Colón

Right hand twisting her hair in flirtatious manner,

looking left at monument of Christopher Columbus

Veuve Clicquot

Yellow motorcycle with sidecar publicizing nearby restaurant

Printed rendition of true facade used for safety on buildings being revamped

Much nicer looking than blue tarps

Aranjuez – Spring Palace

Royal Palace of Aranjuez

Springtime use by the royalty and the seat of government

Four palaces, one for each season

Filled with exquisite gardens, fountains, lizards, a peacock

Designed to rival the Palace of Versailles

The long arcade of old horse guards’ barracks

Chinchón – Charity bullfighting

Roofs of Chinchón

Goya painted in this beautiful town

Plaza Mayor de Chinchón, just before eating dinner at

Café de la Iberia (1879): top balconies across the way under the tower…

Treasured agricultural area famous for

anise liquor, delicious strawberries and prime garlic

Real Plaza de Toros, Chinchón (from the town’s website)

Charity bullfights since 1871 although the plaza dates to 1499

Transformed into a temporary bullring, once a year, to raise money for charities

Usually the last corrida of the season, in October

Very expensive tickets, only 5,000 can attend…

Toledo – Cultural Fusion

In 1986 it was named a World Heritage Site, it’s salvation as many locals are moving to more convenient areas of Spain.  One of the few ancient metropolises of Spain where all its historic quarters haven’t been swallowed up by modernism thanks to its narrow, winding, cobbled streets, steep gradients, and city walls.

At its peak in the 11^th century, the city was a haven of ethnic tolerance where Christians, Jews and Muslims all coexisted and shared their knowledge. The city has been compared to Jerusalem and its landscape called biblical.  Like Jerusalem, it was a city of three religions, with Muslims (more commonly called Moors in Spanish history), Jews and Christians all adding to the rich medley that still shape Toledo today. 

The painter El Greco arrived in 1577 and his visions of tortured saints and his other-worldly views of Toledo have permanently linked the city with mystical enthusiasm.  Perhaps so, but it also had a lively red-light district, and conspicuous clerical wealth and corruption to judge by the comments of 16^th century contemporaries.

In 1561 Toledan pride suffered a blow when Philip V named lowly Madrid (only 70 km to the north) as capital of his empire.  Many reasons have been put forward for Philip’s decision, ranging from his dislike of the arrogance of the Toledan clergy to the tortuous narrow streets, steep gradients and cramped location that made it unsuitable for Philip’s imperial vision.

As the city's power and influence faded into obscurity over the next two centuries, the city was very much left to its own devices.

Today the maze-like streets of Toledo conceal a complex mosaic of religions and cultures, all melded into one extraordinary and somewhat intriguing destination.

Tagus river surrounds Toledo on three sides

It serves as excellent natural protection

Narrow streets, walls, gates and bridges give it a true medieval feel

Passing by the 16^th century Moorish entrance Puerta de Bisagra Nueva 
on the way to Hacienda del Cardenal Restaurant, 
famous for its Cochinillo al Horno, grilled piglet.

Principal gateway into the ancient walled city of Toledo.

The Alcazar (fortress – now military academy) sits on the highest part of Toledo

Originally built as a Roman fortification in the 3^rd century.   

In 1521, Charles I received Hernán Cortés, Spanish explorer and conqueror of Mexico,

 following Cortés’ conquest of Montezuma and his Aztec Empire.    

Erected about 1,200 years before Columbus discovered America!

In center, Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes.

Part of the old Jewish quarter of the city

Toledo has been home to Christian, Jewish and Muslim cultures over centuries

Also, home to the El Greco, the famous 16^th century artist

Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo, 13^th century

Considered by some authorities as the magnum opus of Gothic style in Spain

Not open to public when I was there.  Only saw the marvelous outside

Layers of wooden balconies high above very narrow streets

Toro Negro – One of the black Osborne bulls of Spain

From the over 500 original bulls, only 91 remain

14 meters high, weighing 4000 kg

Osborne is a sherry company founded in 1772.  Beginning in 1956, they erected large images of black bulls, all over Spain, to advertise their Brandy de Jerez.  Originally, its brand name Veterano was boldly written in red across each logo, but it was blacked out after a Spanish rule banned ads by the side of the road, a pretty clever way to keep the promotion up despite the new law!

Over time, the dark bull outlines slowly transitioned from ads to unofficial symbols of Spain. 

In 2005, the image of the bull was declared national property by a Spanish judge, after the Osborne Group brought a case against companies using the bull image on various items.  The judge said the bull ‘had been converted into a national symbol that could be used without the company’s permission and is artistic heritage that belongs to the Spanish people, integrated into the countryside.’  The Osborne Group countered ‘If Spaniards can claim Osborne’s bull, why can’t American’s claim Coca Cola’s logo as national property?’

La Coruña, Galicia – Where Picasso, as a child, spent four years

View from my hosts’ home.  Morning mist lingering over verdant field

Overlooking Ria de la Coruña

Small sailing vessel enjoying a good sail

One of the hórreos (grain silo) at my hosts’ centuries old home

Symbol of Galicia, they are called Galician Granaries

Small barn-like made of wood, stones, or bricks.

From Roman Empire – granaries elevated against rain and protection from rodents.

Store grain/corn but today firewood, chickens, bikes, gardening tools, etc.

Miniature hórreo on stilts (more commonly built that way)

Local walnuts

Lovely simple homes in very lush landscape

A bit of color left…

General Franco’s Palace – Pazo de Meiras

His Summer Retreat for sale since 2009

To this day, General Franco remains a very controversial figure in Spanish history and the nature of his dictatorship changed over time. He presided over both brutal repression with thousands killed yet, economic prosperity, greatly improving the quality of life of many.

This historic property in the village of Sada near La Coruña in Galicia, boasts 15 bedrooms, a private chapel and hunting grounds in excess of 16 acres.  The Galician people insist it should be returned to the public as a symbolic way to do away with the legacy of this brutal dictator and that no one should profit from it. 

Monastery of Santa Maria de Monfero in the Fragas Do Eume Park

Hit by lightning in the 17^th century, it was destroyed and rebuilt

Hit again by lightning in 1805 but only slightly damaged

Rare chequerboard front of quartz and slate

Surrounded by oak, poplar, chestnut, birch, alder, ash, yew, hazelnut, holly,

cork trees, lichens, moss, and ferns. 

Fragas Do Eume Park is the best preserved Riverside Atlantic Forest in Europe

Percebes – gooseneck barnacles - $1,100/kilo

Only found here (called the coast of death), Portugal and Vancouver Island.

Attached to dangerous rocky cliffs battered by tidal waves.

Few who fish them do it for more than 4-5 years – too difficult and dangerous

Had them for dinner a couple of times – delicious

Angulas – Baby eels aka Caviar of Northern Spain

At 3 years old, they are only 10 cm long.

Also $1,100/kilo

Today, most people are served gulas or mock baby eels, made from

pollock cut to look like the real angulas 

Galicia harvests more fruits of the sea than anywhere else in Europe

with only the finest reserved for the local markets, bars, and restaurants

Seafood lovers should definitively have this region on their bucket list

Helping sailors for generations

Tower of Hercules, the oldest Roman (100 CE) lighthouse still in use in the world

Inspired by Egypt’s Alexandria lighthouse

Refurbished late 1700’s - Recognized by four white flashes every 20 seconds

Can’t go to top when windy – too windy the day I was there

Avoided climbing the 230+ stairs!

Palacio Municipal La Coruña

In La Plaza de Maria Pita

Often called ‘The Crystal City’ because of the many glass balconies (galerias)

Santiago de Compostela – Where long pilgrimages end

Gaiás Cidade de Cultura de Galicia (cultural center)

People are allowed to walk on parts of these buildings

Unfortunately somewhat of a white elephant, underutilized

Gaiás Cidade de Cultura de Galicia, great area for sculpture displays

Highly contested contemporary architecture by American Peter Eisenman

La Catedral de Santiago de Compostela

End of the famous Camino de Santiago or Way of St James pilgrimage

A large network of pilgrimage routes ends here

Construction 1075-1122, consecrated 1128

Considered finest medieval art

In the cathedral – immense botafumerio – extra-large silver incense holder

80 kg, 150 cm tall, it uses 35 kg of charcoal

It takes eight tiraboleiros to swing it and stop it

The use of incense burners started in the middle ages to cover the stench

of the dirty pilgrims and believed to help ward off diseases.

In the main plaza I saw many pilgrims happily and appreciatively finishing their various pilgrimages in front of the cathedral.  From pilgrims who trust that they can survive on food and shelter offerings to people taking expensive tours, there are all kinds of pilgrims.  I mostly saw the type that does this alone, with a very small budget.  More than 100,000/year now make the whole or only part of the pilgrimage.  The most sought-after route follows the border between France and Spain and is 780 km long.  That route takes about 30 days to complete, a great way to disconnect from the world.  Some do the route by bicycle…  Buen Camino!

Albariño grapes are supported by granite posts instead of wood. 

The granite posts are called ‘parra’ and allow breezes to come through

and dry the grapes after the region’s frequent showers.

The seafood lover’s wine!

Galicia is famous for its seafood so why not also grow a great wine to pair with it. 

Ninety percent of the wine produced here is Albariño,

a grape that can withstand and perhaps even thrive in moist, coastal climate

Rolling green hills cloaked with fog and dew.

Pan Tumaca, Pan con tomate, or Pan a la Catalana

Fresh tomato sauce (pink and juicy) for breakfast with fresh bread and olive oil. 

In some places they rub a specific type of tomato (ramallet)

right onto the toasted bread instead of grating the tomato

Spain’s traditional breakfast tapa

Very surprising and refreshing

Tapas vs. pinchos, which is it???

D. O. Cruceiro Ribeiro local white wine with chickpeas, stomach lining, bread

When in Galicia……………………

Tapear – or eating tapas – The unwritten rule is that people usually don’t spend a whole evening in one tavern, they move from one to the next, spreading the wealth, supporting all merchants.

While tapas originate from the center of Spain, pinchos (pintxos) are traditionally from the Basque Region. 

Since dinner is usually served so late in Spain, (9pm-midnight), there is a lot of time between the end of a workday and dinner.  Spaniards, therefore, often go ‘bar hopping’ (Ir de tapas) during that time.  Today, it is very popular to eat an entire meal of tapas (tapear) rather than having a few tapas and then having dinner. 

According to The Joy of Cooking, the original tapas were thin slices of bread or meat which sherry drinkers in Andalusian taverns used to cover their glasses between sips. This was a practical measure meant to prevent fruit flies from hovering over the sweet sherry.  The meat used to cover the sherry was normally ham or chorizo, which are both very salty and activate thirst. Because of this, bartenders and restaurant owners created a variety of snacks to serve with sherry, thus increasing their alcohol sales.  The tapas eventually became as important as the sherry. 

Other theories:  

1.     It is also said that since one would be standing while eating a tapa in traditional Spanish bars, they would need to place their plates on top of their drinks to eat, making it a top. 

2.     Some believe the name originated sometime around the 16^th century when tavern owners from Castile-La Mancha found out that the strong taste and smell of mature cheese could help disguise that of bad wine, thus "covering" it, and started offering free cheese when serving cheap wine. 

3.     King Alfonso XIII stopped by a famous tavern in Cádiz (Andalusian city) where he ordered a cup of wine. The waiter covered the glass with a slice of cured ham before offering it to the king, to protect the wine from the beach sand/dust, as Cádiz is a windy place. The king, after drinking the wine and eating the tapa, ordered another wine "with the cover". 

4.     A final possibility surrounds Felipe III, who passed a law in an effort to curb rowdy drunken behavior, particularly among soldiers and sailors. The law stated that when one purchased a drink, the bartender was to place over the mouth of the mug or goblet a cover or lid containing some small quantity of food as part of the purchase of the beverage, the hope being that the food would slow the effects of the alcohol, and fill the stomach to prevent over-imbibing.

Tapa can be a size – from ración (full size) to media ración (1/2 size) to tapa (1/4 size).  Pinchos are not a size.

Tapas have gone international, pinchos are staying local.

Tapas are usually presented on a plate, and they are normally a small version of some of the most typical Spanish dishes. For instance, paella or patatas bravas. Pinchos are most commonly served on a small bread base with a toothpick/cocktail stick spearing some cold or hot delight on top, like Iberian ham, cheese, mushrooms or chorizo.  ‘Pincho’ in Spanish comes from the verb ‘pinchar’ which means ‘to pierce’.

The Spanish do some pretty incredible cuisine, and Arzak is one of the places that produces the best. In fact, the Spanish city of San Sebastián where pinchos come from (Basque region), where this restaurant is based, has the highest number of Michelin star restaurants per capita in the world!

Tapas are ‘free’ pinchos are not.  The toothpick/cocktail stick is used to keep whatever the snack is made of from falling off the slice of bread and to keep track of the number of pinchos the customer has eaten.  A few pinchos come in mini bowls.  Differently priced pinchos have toothpicks of different sizes/colors. The price of a single tapa ranges from one to two euros.

In Spain, you can generally order tapas from the table in most bars and restaurants. However, when you’re going for a pincho feast, you will need to order them from the bar, as pinchos are displayed on the counter, and you can see and pick out the ones you want.

One of the 'novelties' of pinchos is that you don't order, you take. It is not the most hygienic practice in the world, but it's a bit of fun to order your beer and just start nibbling at what you see on the bar. You then normally just tell them at the end how many you've had, and the barman will charge you accordingly.  Some bartenders are protective, and you have to ask.  Many bars also have a menu. This means fresh pinchos cooked to order, which is a lot more hygienic (and tasty) than the normal ones, though perhaps a little less fun and at times pricier.

As you probably know, in Spain tapas are normally shared within the group. Locals order a few of them and put them in the middle of the table. Each diner has a small plate and some bread and picks up some food from one tapa or another. However, pinchos are eaten individually. They are so small that they would be difficult to share. Each person orders and eats his or her own pinchos, generally presented on a small piece of bread.

On a darker side:  It has also been claimed that tapas originated in the south of Spain during the time of the Spanish Inquisition as a means of publicly identifying conversos, Jews who had converted to Christianity. Since tapas often consist in part of ham or other non-kosher foodstuffs, the reluctance of the conversos to eat whatever tapas dish was offered to them could be taken as a tacit admission that they had not abandoned their Jewish faith, thus tapas were a tool of the Spanish Inquisition.

Below is a list of some of the tapas/pinchos tasted during my time in Spain:

• Aceitunas – Olives 
• Albondigas – Meatballs 
• Almejas – Clams, various kinds
• Bacalao – Dried and salted cod or cod with raisins
• Beberechos – Cockles
• Boquerones – White anchovies served in vinegar or deep fried
• Centollo – Spider crab
• Cigala – Norway lobsters/crayfish
• Croquetas – Croquettes, usually of cod
• Figs
• Gambas al ajillo – Garlic shrimp, olive oil, red pepper
• Jamon iberico – Iberian cured ham, cured for 24-48 months.  Free range two years on 5 acres/each, their last diet solely olives, acorns (bellotas of cork trees), or chestnuts…Like beluga caviar or kobe beef, ultimate of its kind.  Remarkably, the curing process converts much of the remaining fat into a beneficial good-cholesterol fat, much like extra virgin olive oil. This magical process only occurs in the hams made from acorn fed pigs - producing Bellota hams.
• Local cheeses – Tetilla, Queso Ahumado de Aliva
• Mejillones - Mussels
• Navajas – Razor clams
• Patatas bravas – Twice baked potatoes with soft inside and crunchy crust
• Perrochico mushrooms – St. George’s mushrooms, one of the most expensive and highly regarded mushrooms in Europe – served with olive oil, butter, and/or cream
• Pulpo a la Gallega – Octopus, slow-boiled and cut in medallions with extra virgin oil, salt, paprika
• Salchicha – Spicy sausages
• Solomillo – Sirloin 
• Tortilla de patatas –Spanish potato omelet
• Vieiras/Zamburinas – Scallops
• There is just so much to choose from

On many levels, I had an wonderful time in Spain.  Although quite a bit more expensive than Mexico, the friendliness of the locals is hard to beat, the food is nonpareil and the scenery changes at every corner.  I was here a bit over 30 years ago studying Spanish in Salamanca for a couple of weeks.  Still feels the same, a bit like home.  Now off to England…