Time Here Seems to Pass Differently – Guerrero and Morelos

The universe and I play this never-ending game of tease 

and I delight in the unexpected charms I find at every turn.

LeAnne Dziekan

Sleeping off a hard night on the town

I like the ‘You only live one’

Tepoztlán, Morelos, Mexico

With travel bags full of ambiguity, I am learning to welcome and grow from, I continue to explore this marvelous world whether cautiously in riskier areas or more carelessly with the safety of various networks.

I reject the void; I wish to continue this self-designed journey knowing that hollowness only lasts in memory.  It is fleeting, evasive, and transitory, but it has form and substance and can fill your world if you let it.  I prefer to live in the richness of the moment with the freedom that non-attachment to outcomes has given me. 

Being in a place where you know absolutely no-one fills me with a peculiar feeling.  Familiar, yet foreign; it eventually becomes reassuring and exciting because I experience it again and again.  My skills at detecting the most minute of signs, improving.  Constantly on my toes I am inspired, my mindfulness repeatedly polished and refined.  Growing keener and better equipped, it is becoming quasi-natural.

Few people in the modern world are left with quality of presence, if they have any presence at all.  They are letting the void fill their world.  Shadows of their own selves.  I refuse the void, whether it brings me joy, pain, or fear, I opt for life, passion, and hopefully, adventure. 

So many people question the sanity of my travels.  Alone? In supposed cartel areas? Without a strategy?  Yes, yes, and yes.  The only sensible plan is to be present, open, flexible, and curious.  

Monument of the Repenting Sinners (Penitents)

Animas (L), Flagelentes (C), Encruzados (R)

Behind ex-monastery San Bernardino de Siena in Taxco

In Taxco where nearly everything is built on steep hillsides, flatland is extremely rare, therefore tremendously valuable.  There are only two, maybe three, miniature plazas in Taxco.  Most of that leveled space used by cars and busses to move about the crowded city, adorned with a few benches, or occupied by some street vendors under a bit of shade. 

On the main plaza is the famous Santa Prisca Church, the most intricate architectural place in Taxco, its twin steeples looking even taller and more impressive built at the top of a hill.  It is called Plaza Borda in honor of the Frenchman (José de La Borda) who, thanks to his silver mines, paid to have the Santa Prisca Church built – in hopes to have his own son, Manuel de La Borda, become Taxco’s parish priest, which he did for 18 years starting in 1758, the year the building was completed.  "God gives to La Borda and La Borda gives to God," reads his family motto, explaining his generosity to the Roman Catholic Church.

Santa Prisca was finished in only eight years, which is unheard of as churches of this magnitude averaged 150-200 years to build.  The church is filled with embellishments and minutiae of every nature as it was made in the Baroque style, known for exaggeration.

The church is named after Saint Prisca, a female Roman aristocrat who defied Claudius II by repudiating Apollo in favor of Christ. At the time, it was one of the most richly adorned churches in New Spain. Many of its sculptures and other decorative features were covered in gold and jewels. Eventually, many of these items would make their way to the Mexico City Cathedral and Notre Dame in Paris (Wikipedia). 

However, let’s not forget that La Borda made his fortune by cruelly exploiting native labor.

When I tried visiting the church, only half was opened to the public, years of mining blasts, heavy trucks rumbling by, trickling of time, and the major earthquake of a couple years ago having damaged parts of it.  My guide told me it should reopen September 2019.  Let’s hope.  

With general lack of space in mind, it is amazing that they would use a fairly large flat space to display the Monument of the Penitents:  Animas (souls in purgatory), Flagelentes (flagellants), and Encruzados (on the cross).  It shows how important and meaningful this Taxco tradition dating back to 1598 still is even though it has often been denounced as heresy by the Catholic church.  This old Medieval practice is seen by some as a demonstration of penance or piety, by others as a circus.

The Animas or souls are mostly women. They wear black dresses and a belt made of horsehair and nails.  They are bent ninety degrees at the waist and carry a blessed crucifix and/or lighted candles with their hot wax dripping on their hands.  They have heavy (up to 10kg) long chains wrapped around their ankles.  Their sound on the cobblestones a reminder of the difficult paths they are undertaking.  Since they always face the ground, they have attendants guiding them during the procession. When the procession stops, they rest by going on hands and knees.

The Flagelentes are men and use extreme forms of mortification of their flesh by flogging themselves with various instruments...   Shirtless, they carry a rosary and a heavy cross that they temporarily lend to the attendees while they whip their bodies.  This is repeated every night during Holy Week reopening the wounds of the earlier day(s).  They are the most spectacular as they are often bloody. 

The Encruzados are also men, carrying anywhere between 70-100 pounds (32-45 kilos) of thorny bramble stems on their outstretched bare arms akin to the savior on the cross, the thorns digging in their skin, the weight making them unsteady.  Walking their own Calvary, they often walk accompanied by two attendants who at times need to prevent them from falling. 

What the three have in common, they are largely silent, wear black, have their head and face covered with dark hoods (called capirotes) with eyeholes so they can keep their identities secret and walk barefoot, sometimes on cobbled stones as hot as coal. 

This event should be about spirit, not body, and an act of faith, not a spectacle.  It has, unfortunately, been folklorized and has become merely a photo op for most, many not understanding the original intent.  Tourist invasion, from within and from outside, has disrupted the social environment where these rituals take place.  The true penitents belong to a group that meets regularly, each holding a specific function.  It is prestigious to be part of this anonymous brotherhood.  Members normally must undergo several steps to get to the point where they too, can take part in the procession.

Several ‘penitents’ now, come unannounced, surreptitiously taking part in the procession more as sneaky tourists than true penitents.  During this Easter Week activity, it is getting increasingly difficult for the locals to deal with the influx on the 2-7 kilometer (depending on source) downtown procession of connection to pain to atone for their sins or asking for favors or miracles.

An interesting contrast can be found here.  The clergy does not find any logic in these popular religious manifestations vs. people who do not find much sense in the ‘real’ tame version repeated with zeal by these official ministers.  To Mexican, to live is to suffer and this direct connection is not merely theoretical.

Anima – Soul (L), Flagelente (R)

Encruzado

Although I was not in Taxco during Easter and did not, firsthand, witness this event, it is a particularly interesting way for people to express themselves, 400 years later… 

And there is much more to Guerrero and its surrounding states. 

Tepoztlán

In the depths of winter, telling stories of sun-drenched towns and colorful market stalls wavers on the edge of malice, but I must show/tell you about my visit to the town of Tepoztlán in the state of Morelos.

According to an ancient myth, Tepoztlán is the birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, a feathered serpent Aztec god of wind, air, and learning, widely worshipped in ancient Mexico.  To the Aztecs, Quetzalcóatl was, as his name indicates, a feathered serpent, a flying reptile (much like a dragon), who was a boundary-maker between earth and sky. He was a creator deity having contributed essentially to the creation of Mankind (Wikipedia).

To see his temple, one must climb up a very steep hill.  On the way there, you can easily feel that there is something mystical in the mountains surrounding Tepoztlán.

While the inhabitants of Tepoztlán (called Tepoztecos) are officially Catholic, the God El Tepozteco is as present in their lives as Christ. As one Tepozteco says, ‘When we are in trouble, we call on El Tepozteco, because he is our warrior spirit. But when it is time to pass on, we turn to the Almighty.’ 

As is common in many places in Mexico, comes the realization that nothing has really changed.  Here, El Tepozteco has given his people the strength to take what they like from successive invaders while holding fast to their identity as the children of a living god.

Templo de Tepoztécalt, god/inventor of pulque

Difficult hike with average 37% grade over 1km or so

Steep climb perfect for mountain goats

You can see the many contours and spires before

arriving at the temple.  Sign said it should take 90 minutes,

I managed in 31 minutes with sheer will. 

Grade goes from 22% to 66% (almost on hands and knees at that point)

Many locals do this hike daily (to sell stuff or work at the top)

They walk up and down this trail barefoot

Tight squeeze between two spires. 

The very last one, so steep, it is equipped with a staircase…

Mystical beauty.

Magical traditions and mysticism live in the mountains.

Climbing 1,450 feet within 0.7 to 1.2 km gaining 1 foot for every 2.73 feet gain.

Starting around 5,550 feet and ending around 7,000.

Finally, at the temple where offerings of pulque, maguey, and honey were the norm.

Many altars found around town, mountain backdrop where I hiked up

Close-up of seed and bean ‘painting’

Redone each year by various artists

Covering archway at entrance of church yard

The door of Seeds (La puerta de Semillas)

This tradition began in 1993 in Tepoztlán, when the artisan Alfredo Martínez Rojas proposed to develop this seed artwork. Only the access to the atrium of the parish is decorated, as an offering or a gift to the Virgin of the Nativity.  Made entirely of 85 different varieties of edible seeds and beans, this is a very magical way in which the villagers give their gratitude.

Using the pictorial language of their Indian ancestors, each arch comments on the events of the year. These unique arches attract visitors from all over the world and bring the people of Tepoztlán together as a community.

This year, the artwork celebrated 25 years of Door of Seeds with a portrait of Alfredo Martinez Rojas and a portrait of local musician and Nahuatl speaker (keeping the language alive) Don Angel Sandoval.

Chapulines (grasshoppers(L) and other local foods such as flowers

Sauces of beer, guava, tamarind, Coca-Cola, hibiscus, mango, jumiles (stinkbugs), etc.

Triangular itacates on left are delicious fried thick tortillas

You should see how quickly the ladies shape these tasty bread-like pockets

There’s a glorious rhythm to this act

Bowls of crisp chapulines fried and tossed with salt and chilies.

or addictive potato chips with legs!!!

Church steeples needing attention after earthquake

Braced while repairs are done.  Church is closed to public

People pray in tented area of the church’s courtyard

Had to take down the bells, their weight too much for the

weakened steeples in need of repair

Ex-Convent of Tepoztlán

Next to church and still partially open to the public

From ex-convent to the mountains beyond

Second floor now closed to public after earthquake

Small market interspersed with food stalls where you

can discover local gems

Flor de Tzompantle – Naked Coral Tree flowers – edible

Seasonal – I just happened to be here at the right time

Huitlacoche or Corn Smut – delicious

Seasonal but you can find canned corn smut – not as good

Mexican ‘truffle’, mushroom-like, sweet, savory, woody, and earthy.

Corn smut contains much more protein than regular corn does!

Vilified by the farmers in the US, it receives good prices in Mexico.

Squash blossoms – also delicious

Ixcateopan (The Temple of Cotton)

In pre-Hispanic times Taxco was thought to be the most important city in the region as it held the seat of the Aztec governor who presided over seven districts.  Ixcateopan provided this important city with food and supplies.  It was also considered an important ceremonial center.  

The museum and the locals like to make you believe that the bones of King Cuauhtemoc are buried under the main church.  Carbon dating and other modern investigative techniques prove otherwise.  They even asked the famous Diego Rivera to come inspect the bones to ‘legitimize’ this false claim.  

Diego Rivera (L) examining bones

Whether or not the claim is true, the 1949 rumor helped revitalize the town at a time when the government, during a widespread economic crisis, was trying to promote unity, and pre-Hispanic themes were preferred in the national discourse. 

In exchange, Ixcateopan was offered piping and electrical lights, moving them into the 21^st century and in the eyes of tourism. 

Its history is very similar to many other areas of Mexico.  It grew what it needed, wax, honey, amaranth, cotton, copal, fruits and vegetables and was even located on a salt route.  None of this interested the Spaniards when they came along.  They brought crop destructive cattle and cleared the forest to make room for the heavy animals.  They wanted gold and silver, not cotton or vegetables.  They enslaved many of the locals in the nearby mines. 

In the scheme of things however, Ixcateopan fared quite well.  The town’s altitude and remoteness made it an unlikely choice for the Spaniards, so few ended up moving there, saving more of the local culture than other more favored places in Mexico.

Aztec ruler King Cuauhtémoc (Descending Eagle), Ixcateopan

White marble streets of Ixcateopan

Such a clean small town

Old church with high pole for voladores (explained in this previous post)

Nearby Pozas Azules

Pozas Azules de Atzala

No description needed, just a photo...

Cacahuamilpa Caves

Among the many caverns in Mexico, Cacahuamilpa, discovered in 1833, is exceptional. Certainly not the longest or deepest cavern in Mexico, much less in the world, Cacahuamilpa is remarkable because of the size of its gallery and its exceptional speleothems.  The cave system is distinguished by the size of its gallery, up to 100m wide and 90m high, with a variety of colossal speleothems (stalagmites, stalactites, gours).

The Cacahuamilpa Caves were known to ancient Mexicans; archaeological evidence for this has been dated at 3,000 BP. It is believed that the existence of the cavern was kept secret because it was used for ceremonial purposes by local indigenous groups.

The discovery “to the outside world” took place in 1833, although the first written news corresponds to the expedition led by Jean Louis Baptiste Gros, secretary of the French legation in Mexico, in 1835 (Anonymous, 1838). The cave attracted worldwide attention and was at that time considered to be the largest cave in the world.

During the 1960s, the cave was fitted out to promote the visit of tourists on the occasion of the Olympic Games held in 1968. Full illumination throughout the cavern and the platform that provides access were completed. In the 1990s, the cavern was about to become a sort of Jurassic Park, when the Mexican government gave a grant to a Canadian businessman intending to install mechanical dinosaurs at the entrance to the caverns. Fortunately, this project was averted, since it would have meant the destruction of an unrecoverable natural heritage (Proceso, 1995).

Parts of the cave are named after speleothems’ special looks:

• El Chivo (the goat) Entrance to the cavern; from a stalagmite resembling the shape of a goat
• Las Fuentes (Fountains) From gour where water flows during the rainy season.
• Los Tronos (Thrones) From stalagmites and stalactites resembling thrones; three main structures are visible, corresponding to the “thrones” of a King, Queen and Prince.
• Plaza de armas (Parade Ground) It is believed that in this hall President Porfirio Diaz presided a soldier’s parade during his famous visit in 1881.
• Volcán (Vulcano) From a large stalagmite resembling a volcano.
• Pedregal del muerto (Dead man) In this hall a skeleton of an expeditioner was found in 1833, presumably the first modern visitor to the cavern, who died of starvation.
• La Botella (The Bottle) The hall is named after the largest stalagmite found in the cavern.
• Portal de los Querubines (Portal of cherubim); the narrowest portion of the Cavern, almost closed due to extensive formation of stalagmites, stalactites and columns.

Entrance to cave

Large rooms

Ceiling is 81 meters, bottle shaped stalagmite (L) is 50 meters. 

Parts of movie Journey to the Center of the Earth filmed here.

Due to many earthquakes and parts of cave ceiling falling,

there aren’t many stalactites in this cave system.

Almost like elephant trunks

Surrounded by amazing shapes - skinny

Or round and bulbous

Easy path to follow along the whole 1+ km you can visit

Time spent in caves or by teal blue cascades, realizing that penitents still roam the streets at Easter, eating pre-Hispanic foods, tasting mezcals made the old way, hiking in sacred mountains, made it feel like time had slowed down, time seemed to pass differently.  Truly enjoyable area of Mexico to visit.