Sep 19, 2026

Argentina & Chile - Rocky Landscape of Vivid Hues & Intense Patterns (part 4)

Fall in love with someone who is both your safe place 
and your biggest adventure. 

Bianca Sparacino

Los Estratos (the strata)
Layers of various colors
In this last post about my tour in Argentina and Chile, I'll share pictures of The Ruins of Quilmes, a sizable archeological site.  It was the largest pre-Columbian settlement in Argentina.  It dates back to 850 CE, and it is believed that about 4,000-5,000 people lived there during its heights.  So well protected was this site, Spanish conquerors were not able to defeat this last bastion of resistance until 130 years after their invasion of this part of Argentina in 1535.  

I love this small 'S' shape sand dune
Especially the white against black
View between Belén and Finca Albarossa where I had lunch
The Ruins of Quilmes or Ciudad Sagrada de Quilmes 
(Sacred City of Quilmes)
Viewed from one of the fortifications (
pukarás)
Ciudad Sagrada de Quilmes 
Cardón cacti growing throughout
As in many ancient settlements, the location had fertile soil,
sufficient water and strategically and centrally placed on trade routes. 
Ciudad Sagrada de Quilmes
Look at the thickness of these walls (
pircas)
Ciudad Sagrada de Quilmes
Multiple mortars near round enclosure
It is assumed that square areas served mainly for living purposes 
and the rounded ones were storage facilities.  
Ciudad Sagrada de Quilmes
Viewed from the other fortification
Fertile valley below by the Santa Maria River
This reconstructed area only represents 15% of the ancient settlement.  
Ciudad Sagrada de Quilmes
The ruins were reconstructed in 1978
Descendants of the founders have occupied the site since 2008
and opened an interpretation center in 2018.  
Ciudad Sagrada de Quilmes
They laid out terraced fields reinforced with walls (pircas),
irrigated through ditches and channels.  They raised livestock, grazed animals, hunted game. 
They had knowledge of pottery and metallurgy.
Bottle Tree flowers with bee (Brachychiton)
Guachipas, Salta Province, Argentina
Swiss cheese like rocks
Guachipas, Salta Province, Argentina
On my way to El Anfiteatro & Garganta del Diablo
(the amphitheater & devil's throat)
Guachipas, Salta Province, Argentina
Inside the nature reserve of Quebrada de las Conchas (ravine of shells)
The amphitheater - see the size of the man on lower right
Driving down towards Los Estratos
Some greenery at the base of these mountains
I can't say enough about the variety of layers in such short distances
Panoramic view
Almost at the entrance of Los Estratos
Inside Los Estratos
Unfortunately, this picture doesn't do it justice but the mountain
behind the red one looks just like malachite
Definitely aptly named Los Estratos
Look at all these layers
Los Estratos
You don't often see greenish layers like the ones here
Old oven where they are cooking my empanadas
Eating at Las Chuecas Empanadas in Cafayate, Argentina
Small rural hospital in San Carlos, Argentina
I love the lilac color
Quebrada de las Flechas (ravine of the arrows) 
Pointed, inclined sandstone rock formations resembling arrowheads
Quebrada de las Flechas (ravine of the arrows)
Their colors range from ash-gray to reddish-ochre, shifting according to the daylight.
This sign is so damaged by the sun it's unreadable
I like the sun tanned unknown man next to it
He didn't move the whole time I hiked there
Las Flechas - view from Mirado Ventisquero (snowdrift)
Some people say they look like melting glaciers with crevasses
Many people travel by motorcycles here, especially from Brazil
911 sign, nearly in the middle of nowhere, with little phone reception
First sight in the morning sun at Hacienda de Molinos Hotel
Inner courtyard at Hacienda de Molinos Hotel
They were getting ready for a special dinner event
Very large tree shading the whole courtyard
Simple church in Seclantás, 1835
Nuestra Senora del Carmen de Seclantás 
There's nothing like cacti with a background of snow
On my way to Parque Nacional los Cardones
Captivating
Driving down to Parque Nacional los Cardones
I know they are small and far away but my only sighting of guanacos
They are bigger than 
vicuñas
Parque Nacional los Cardones
New snow fell the night before
View from Capilla San Rafael (San Rafael chapel)
Capilla San Rafael (San Rafael Chapel)
11,342 feet of altitude (3,457 m)
Inside of Capilla San Rafael
Horse and dog resting
On our way back to Salta - the end of the trip
One of many horses roaming the road
My last hotel Finca Valentina Casa de Campo
All hotels were amazing - I was lucky - I had an amazing trip

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