I know someone who kisses the way a flower opens.
Mary Oliver
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| Eguzkilore to protect the home of my new hosts Near Unzá-Apreguindana |
Eguzkilore
Though it resembles a large, spiky sunflower, the
eguzkilore is actually a carline thistle (Carlina Acaulis), a plant with a
history that extends far beyond its botanical beauty. It is a symbol of the
sun’s protective powers and a cultural artifact that continues to have meaning
in today’s Basque society. This flower
is not a sunflower in the traditional sense, but a thistle with a large, flat,
circular bloom surrounded by spiky bracts that radiate outward like the sun's
rays. That unique shape is what drew the
attention of the ancient Basques, who revered the sun not only as a source of
life and light but as a divine force that could repel darkness and protect
against malevolent spirits.
According to Basque mythology, the eguzkilore was
a gift from the goddess Mari (see previous post), one of
the most important deities in the Basque pantheon. Mari, often considered as Earth Mother, ruled over the natural world and controlled the elements. The people of
the Basque Country, faced with the constant threat of witches, evil spirits,
and other supernatural beings, turned to Mari for help. In response, she
provided them with the eguzkilore, a flower imbued with the power of the
sun.
Hanging an eguzkilore on the front door or above the
doorway was a simple yet powerful way to protect the household from these
nocturnal threats. In one version of the legend, malevolent spirits would
become fascinated by the intricate pattern of the flower's spikes and petals.
They would spend the entire night trying to count them, and by the time they
finished, the sun would rise, forcing them to retreat. This idea parallels
similar traditions in other cultures, where objects like knots, complex
patterns, or mirrors were used to confuse or distract spirits.
The enigmatic eguzkilore protects the home from evil
spirits, against illnesses, and brings good fortune. According to legend, the Sun
Goddess would transform herself into a flower during the night to protect her
people from evil spirits, witches, demons or malevolent forces. The flower acted as a surrogate for the sun,
shining its light to keep evil at bay through the night. The eguzkilore is similar to the four-leaf
clover of the Celtic folklore or the evil-eye amulet of the Greek.
It is not only seen as a protector but also as a
connection to the Basque's ancestors and a representation of their unique heritage. The flower is still used today in various
rituals and ceremonies. During important
occasions such as weddings or births, the eguzkilore may be given as a gift to ensure
the protection and wellbeing of the individual(s) involved.
The cultural significance of eguzkilore extends beyond
its protective properties. It is also
seen as a symbol of love, unity, and resilience within the Basque
community. The flower represents the
strength and determination of the Basque people, who have faced numerous
challenges throughout history while managing to preserve their unique culture
and traditions. It is more than a
flower, it is a symbol of protection, tradition, and cultural identity. Much like the hardy thistle that can survive
in harsh conditions.
The flower is often incorporated into traditional
Basque jewelry designs – on my way home on the plane, the young lady next to me
was wearing a necklace with an eguzkilore.
Prior to visiting the Basque Country I wouldn’t have known what it represented. It made for a nice way to start a conversation
with her and I could tell she was very proud of her Basque heritage.
The eguzkilore continues to weave its magic into the
fabric of Basque society, reminding us of the importance of tradition, belief,
and the beauty that lies within the mysteries of folklore.
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| Ulle Gorri Basserria (farm), 1865 I love staying in the country - so quiet and beautiful here |
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| Mini-Mouse (large brown horse) and Elvis (white one) Friendly welcoming crew |
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| As seen from breakfast area, foggy morning |
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| Once the fog lifted |
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| With a view of the very small village of Unzá-Apreguindana About half way between Bilbao and the capital city of Vitoria-Gasteiz |
That name in Basque has
two meanings: gaztelu-atx, castle rock, or gaztelu-gatxe inaccessible castle.
Gaztelugatxe is an islet
on the Coast of the Bay of Biscay in the Cantabrian Sea. This tiny rocky island,
connected to the mainland by a curving man-made stone bridge and 241 steps, captures
the essence of the Basque region’s natural beauty.
On top of the islet
stands a hermitage named Gaztelugatxeko Doniene in Basque, San Juan de
Gaztelugatxe in Spanish, dedicated to John the Baptist, that dates from the 9th
century.
Many who speak of this hermitage
like to remind you of the tradition of ringing its bell three times in
order to attract good luck and chase away evil spirits. Unfortunately, the rope
that activates that bell has now been removed to prevent the bell’s sound from
disturbing the seabirds that inhabit San Juan de Gaztelugatxe.
In addition to being a place of great beauty, San Juan
de Gaztelugatxe is very popular with arrantzales (fishermen). Inside the
shrine, there are votive offerings from sailors saved from shipwreck, scale
models of boats and paintings of ships close to wrecking.
Even today, at the beginning of the fishing season,
boats approach San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and turn three times to port and
starboard to ask the saint to protect their boat and help them have a good
fishing season.
In the year 1053 the
hermitage was donated by Don Íñigo López, Lord of Biscay, to the monastery of
San Juan de la Peña. Medieval burials from the 9th and 12th
centuries have been found on the esplanade and in the hermitage.
The building we see today
unfortunately is not the original one. Over the centuries there have been fires
and battles and the hermitage/church has had to be rebuilt on multiple
occasions. It is believed that the first hermitage was erected in the 9th
century. In the 12th century, it became a convent. However, two
centuries later the friars left the place taking all the valuables with them.
Even though the first written records date back to the 9th century, it is believed that the history of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe goes back even further. Unfortunately, documentation from this period is rather scarce. Although today it is a religious temple, it was not always so. Originally it was a strategic space for the defense of Bizkaia.
During the Middle Ages, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe acquired a strategic importance. It became a defensive fortress against attacks by pirates and invaders. Records indicate that it suffered and resisted several sieges, including raids by Norman pirates.
In 1593 it was attacked
and sacked by English Admiral Francis Drake. Among other incidents, it has
caught fire several times. On November 10, 1978, it was destroyed in one such
fire. Two years later, on June 24, 1980, it was re-inaugurated.
HBO filmed scenes for season seven of its fantasy series Game of Thrones at the islet. Gaztelugatxe stood in for Dragonstone, with a digitally created castle on top of the islet. Though the hermitage is reinvented as a castle, you can still tell that it’s Gaztelugatxe. It’s beauty is unparalleled and unique.
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| Made famous because of Game of Thrones Dragonstone filmed on the small islet on the left |
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| Gaztelugatxe with the small St John the Baptist chapel at the top |
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| Climbing 241 steps to get there |
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| St. John The Baptist Chapel was replaced with AI by the Dragonstone Castle for the Game of Thrones. |
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| St John the Baptist Chapel |
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| Last view of Gaztelugatxe |
The reserve hosts 615 species of vascular plants and
318 species of vertebrates, 245 of which are birds, resident or migratory.
The territory is characterized by a hydrographic basin
of small streams that merge in a great salt marsh surrounded by high sheer
cliffs. The adjoining countryside is occupied by meadowland, oak groves, leafy
woods and specially by plantations of fast-growing conifers (Pinus radiata).
The coastal landscape is covered with Cantabrian woods of holm oak and strawberry trees.
Also referred to as the Guernica Estuary, it is very
close to that part of the world that inspired Pablo Picasso’s famous painting
inspired by the horrific bombing that the town suffered in 1937 when 90% of it
was destroyed. Guernica, however, is much more than a symbol of peace against
the horror of war. It is the cradle of history, political liberties and
extensive autonomy for the Basque people.
As a haven of biodiversity with lush forests, wetlands, and estuaries, it offers a genuine escape from the hustle and bustle of urban life despite being tainted by a very dark history.
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| Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve wetlands Seen from San Pedro hermitage |
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| Above Urdaibai, Hermitage San Pedro |
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| End of the day, sunset on Laga Beach with its beautiful golden sand |
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