Unique Haystacks, Old Mill, Castles & Pharmacy - Kozje, Krško, Olimje - Slovenia

Pleasure Alone is a Mostly Empty Vessel

Peter Heller

Olimje Castle hosting the third oldest pharmacy in Europe dating back to the 17^th century
After Paris and Dubrovnik

Leaving Lipica we first meander through fields of mature corn or bright sunflowers.  We are headed to steeper climbs and windy narrow roads through vineyards, seeing unique hayracks, typical of this region, along the way, and delighting in the shade of ancient forests hiding castles.  Slovenia is so clean, nature so respected, it shows everywhere you look.

Olimje Castle

Olimje is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Europe. It was first mentioned in 1208 as a castle owned by Otto Rufus.  It has passed several phases from castle to monastery, again to castle, and is currently a monastery run by the Conventual Franciscans who take care of the pastoral work and for pilgrims and tourists visiting this historic castle and pharmacy.  It is the celebrated place of the Shrine of the Assumption of Mary, an old castle turned monastery hosting one of the oldest pharmacies (3^rd) in Europe (after Paris and Dubrovnik). 

It went through many owners but the Pauline Monks resided there for 120 years.  When it shut down in 1782, the monks moved to different monasteries in Croatia. 

In 1805, the Count Attems purchased the monastery.  Taxes in those times were waged according to the area of one’s roof and the number of windows.  Since taxes were too high, the SE corner of the castle was demolished.  The Count remained the owner of the castle until the end of WWII at which point it became general property ‘of the people’. 

The Pauline monks began building the baroque church in 1665.  It was completed in ten years.  The great altar standing in the Presbytery is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary.  It is one of the biggest ‘golden’ altars in Slovenia but is somewhat different in that its background is pure black.  It was made in 1680 and has three levels.  The area around the main altar was decorated in 1740.  It was badly damaged in an earthquake in 1974.  Since 1990, the monastery has been occupied by monks of the Order of Friars Minor. 

The Old Pharmacy is decorated with scenes and miracles from the life of St. Francis by Anton Lerchinger from Rogatec.  These frescoes from 1780 are original and amazingly well preserved.  Representing the creation of life of Christ as the doctor of our bodies and souls.  There are also images of the famous physicians, Aesculapius and Paracelsus.  God the Father looks down on the earth from the center of the cupola.  Besides prayer and construction, the Pauline monks produced natural remedies (and now chocolates).  Their monastic rule prescribed that each monastery had to have a room for sick brothers, and next to it a room for medicine and remedies. 

The choir loft has the only remaining bimanual Baroque organ made in 1765.  Inscribed on the organ’s case:  ‘May souls follow the organ’s sound’.

It was very nice to take a walk in their adjacent herbs and medicinal plants garden with all plants identified.  It is topped with several colorful beehives secured under a covered area.  Each castle window (and there are many) is adorned with red flowers.

While walking around I thought it was an interesting juxtaposition to see a monk wearing its habit, using a cell phone.  The old mixing with the new. 

As I said earlier, it’s too bad they were closing as I arrived so I didn’t get to taste their famous ‘vicar drops’, a harmonious herbal liquor made of 28 herbs, nor their very good chocolate from the Syncerus Chocolate Boutique. 

Such a beautiful and well maintained place.  A lot of pride goes into continuing this long tradition and it shows.  Definitely worth a visit.  

Golden altar with black marble background
Dedicated to the Assumption of Mary (here, surrounded by a shower of lightning bolts)

Closed just as I was entering the building so didn't get to check out 
any of the products

Same Castle seen from the Mraz farm up nearby hill

Curved furniture, part of the Old Pharmacy

Beautiful Baroque fresco on cupola of the Old Pharmacy by Anton Lerchinger, 1780
God, the Father, looking down on the Earth

Mellow Yellow Me

Steep hills, wonderful homes

Sole, still working, waterwheel mill in Slovenia

Love seeing the free to roam geese in the farmyard near charming barn 

Sometimes, I think I'm in Austria.  Flowers everywhere.

Old home with wooden winepress on the stone

Closeup of winepress

Largest wooden winepress on the stone in Slovenia (39', 12m long), built in 1874
It took four men to rotate that rock
Cultural Heritage Monument at Tri Lucke Restaurant / Hotel where I spent a night

Podsreda Castle

Another view of Podsreda Castle

Welcome to Kozjansko Regional Park where the APPLE is more than a fruit.
Another view of Podsreda Castle

Podsreda Castle

Though quite hilly, what a superb ride it was to this Romanesque gem.  Curvy roads with large old trees forming leafy arches above, providing shade and a bit of mystery.  The surrounding forest is darkish and ancient looking. 

You first cross gigantic wooden doors to enter the castle, immediately to your right some old horse-drawn buggies are stored in the hallway leading to the courtyard.

First mentioned in 1213, it was nearly destroyed during WWII despite its massive bulk, it was under renovation from 1983 to 2015.  The ‘most castle-like of Slovenian castles’ dates back to the 12^th century, when the northern palace was built around 1150, the tower in 1180, the southern palace in 1220 and the tower with chapel in 1260.  The grand opening of the renovated Castle happened in 1989.  From the Romanesque era are its walls, mullioned windows, chapel, and portals.

Considered one of the best-preserved Romanesque fortress in Slovenia.  You are surrounded by three-meter thick walls leading you to a medieval kitchen with an open fireplace, a bright central courtyard with sgraffiti of a knight and angels as well as a dungeon hidden beneath a staircase.  Everything here speaks of strength, power, hard work, and longevity.

It also features beamed ceilings, chandeliers, a glasswork exhibit of surprising quality (Captured Transparency), and a fabulous wood-paneled Renaissance Hall where concerts and weddings took place.  Also present is a permanent painting exhibition of Slovenian artist France Slana. 

Marija Javeršek (1864–1918), the mother of the Yugoslav communist leader Josip Broz Tito, was from Podsreda. Tito spent part of his childhood in Podsreda with his maternal grandparents.

Should pilgrimages be of interest to you, the castle is a focal point for the pilgrimage trail of St Emma of Gurk (known for her intercession for childbirth and diseases of the eye).

Slovenia is known for its glasswork - Podsreda Castle Museum piece from 1860
In today's Slovenia, the prestigious Rogaška Glassworks is still a major producer of crystal. 
Over 105 years old, employing more than 860 people.

Transparency Captured

Forest glassworks or glazing works were developed in the Kozjansko region primarily where forest areas offered sufficient quantities of wood. Green and colorless glass products were produced. In addition to glass bottles for mineral water production, the Kozjansko glassworks also made glassware for storing medicines and food products, lighting, and serving and eating utensils. The collection at Podsreda Castle mainly contains glass objects from the 19^th and early 20^th centuries.  For more information see video:  Transparency Captured Information 

Glassworks

Glass is one of the most unique materials invented by men.  In the hot state it is a glowing liquid and in a cool state, it transforms into a hard transparent fragile material.  Like other countries of Central Europe, the glass industry of Kozjanko has a remarkable tradition.  The glass industry in Slovenia developed mostly near forests which offered a sufficient supply of wood.  Wood was not only important as a fuel for melting the glass but also as a raw material for making potash which was added to the silica sand to lower the melting point.  To color the glass, they added various metal oxides. 

Glass works were most often established by landlords who invited glass workers from the regions of Austria, the Czech Republic, Bavaria and Silesia (Poland).  To the vast forest covered areas, the landlords gave a piece of their land to the glass workers as tenancy which enabled glass production for about 20 years when the glass workers used up the forests in those areas.  They moved to another location.

In those days glass works as such were located far from settlements mostly because of fire safety and the accessibility of raw materials.  The only thing needed was a sufficient supply of wood and the proximity of water which powered the stamp mills for crushing the raw materials and was later used to power the wheels of the grinding mills.  Glasswork settlements were simple, just the furnace building erected on four pillars which supported the roof. 

Glassworks usually operated from the end of April until the end of October.  The glass workers were regarded as nomads as they continuously moved from one glasswork to another.  They mastered the most demanding shaping techniques which were typical of Venetian glass at that time up until the 18^th century.  Glass making was considered a form of art.

The most renowned glass production in Slovenia is Juicin and its surrounding area.  Based on the archives, many more locations of glassworks were found in this area.  The last of the glassworks closed its doors in the middle of the 1880’s. 

At that time, 25 loggers and 40 glass workers were employed at a glasswork.  It also took about 12-14 horses to move the needed materials around.  They produced mineral water bottles, dining glass dishes, glasses, and beer bottles. 

As the forest was depleted, the glassworks had one glass melting furnace, one cooling furnace, eight melting pots and a pre-processing site for raw materials. 

Eventually they started to do more colored, polished, painted cut and engraved products.  Other than artistic pieces, they also created chandeliers, and medicine bottles. 

Outside of Slovenia, it was sold in many parts of Europe but mainly in Italy.  

More from the Podsreda Castle Glass Museum 
Exhibition called 'Transparency Captured'

France Slana

Slana was recognizes as the most prolific Slovenian painter (1926-2022).  He was a painter of classical themes and his work is dominated by landscape and marine motifs, bouquets, and a wide range of figures, and animal motifs, including roosters, fish, and cats. He often depicted ethnology-related motifs such as typical Slovenian hayracks, barns, mills, wine cellars, interiors of old inns and attic rooms. The castle's oldest part is home to a permanent exhibition of paintings by this well-known Slovenia artist entitled ‘When the game of a moment becomes timeless’. 

Baroque Bouquet (1977) by France Slana (1926-2022)
Most prolific Slovenian painter

Abandoned Mill (2000) by France Slana 
Somewhat somber for my taste

Parade (1977) by France Slana

Unique hayrack (aka toplar) typical of Slovenia
Beautiful construction with no nails involved

Closeup

Check out the way this is put together

Another style of hayrack

Many now sagging, no longer in use

Yet another style seen

Final version, attached to barn and used to dry corn

I cannot truly express my admiration for everything I've seen, eaten, or experienced in Slovenia.  Again, there is so much pride in conservation, nature, the environment, and welcoming of visitors.  Definitely not a place to miss.