The
answers you get depend upon the questions you ask.
Thomas Kuhn
Himba
woman wearing an ‘erembe’ (crown) on her head
Sculpted
from cow or goat leather, worn once married or with first child
Various
loin-skirts hanging on wall behind her
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In Africa, donkeys are ubiquitous. Carrying rowdy kids, the accidental bug-searching-birds,
or supplies on their overused swaybacks, they move slowly along roads with no guides
in sight. Some are tied together by the
neck, others left to roam singly, all casually eating as they go, none resting. Their mellowness makes me want to slow down
and take more time experiencing each of the African scenes developing along the
seemingly endless road to Namibia.
A separate specie from horses, donkeys
are sturdy animals, capable of surviving on scanty vegetation and little water,
which suits them to life in parched areas. Although camels are associated with
trekking across the desert, donkeys did it first. They don’t do well in the rain and being wet
for extended periods can harm them, their fur not waterproof.
Donkeys have a reputation for being
stubborn, but a more fitting description would be cautious and determined,
which also makes them excellent guard animals. After first trying to scare off
predators with loud braying, they are quick to charge and fight off wild dogs,
coyotes, foxes and even mountain lions. Unlike horses,
they are not easily startled and have a keen sense of curiosity. Donkeys are often a salvation to families in
many regions of the third world. They help with water and wood collection, land
cultivation and transportation of produce to market.
More than forty million strong, they
have been used by humans around the world for over 5,000 years. They are the cheapest form of farm labor
accessible to the underprivileged.
Salt pans extending
forever, whitish to blueish to pinkish hues
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Our faithful Pluto by the salt flats
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Leaving Maun, the village near the
Okavango Delta, we first stop by the shimmering Makgadikgadi (dry thirsty
place) pans or salt flats, our last stop in Botswana. Nothing grows for miles in every direction
except perhaps a few hapless miniature plants tucked in the sunk-in animal
tracks crisscrossing the fringes of the salt pans. This nearly featureless terrain fuses with
the horizon and is one of the largest in the world. During the rainy season, it may turn into a
shallow lake making for an inviting area for flamingos, zebras, and many
others. We are here during the dry
season and it is still teaming with life and beautiful in its own way.
Hoba Ataxite (iron meteorite with more than 16% nickel)
3-m wide, 1-m thick, largest known in the world
At 60 tons, it landed on earth 80,000 years ago
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Because it is nearby, we make a
quick detour to see the Hoba Meteorite.
Discovered in 1920 by a farmer plowing his field, it is believed to be between 190 and
410 million years old. Astoundingly, it
fell to the earth without causing a crater.
Its survival as such a large meteorite suggests it entered the
atmosphere on a long low trajectory and a sufficiently slow velocity to allow a
soft landing.
Before
its entrance into the earth’s atmosphere, it is thought to have weighed 88 tons,
losing over a third of its mass from vaporization. An American curator tried to move it to the USA,
but it proved too heavy for any type of transport and stayed in Namibia. Over time, small pieces were cut off using drills
or oxyacetylene torches, leaving many unattractive scars. The area was made a National Monument in 1955
but it was not until 1985 that it received sufficient funds to finally be protected
from further vandalism.
Ablution – not a term used much in the US or Canada but common here
‘Act of washing oneself’ – showing the way to the showers…
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Women – follow her index finger
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Men – ablution – follow his arrow |
Just a tad behind Western Sahara, Namibia
has the second lowest population density in Africa. It is a vast waterless country with a small
population, barely 0.03% of the African continent. With so few people inhabiting such a large
area, only 13.5% of the roads are paved. Vast spaces set Namibia apart. It is a country of impressive
landscapes spread across an area almost twice the size of California but with
only two million people.
This elephant looks incredibly old but is it?
Thanks to white clay and calcite sand, these elephants are
known for their
ghostly appearance which they maintain with regular mud
baths.
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Few light pink flamingos left as the lake recedes
to become salt pan again as seasonal cycles never cease
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Etosha’s Okaukuejo
watering hole is even lit at night for special viewing
So easy to find animals near limited water during the dry
season
Watching for about 30 minutes, we saw more than 200 animals
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Giraffes and gnus (wildebeests) |
Puff adder, one of the deadliest snakes in the world.
Crossing the road with a full belly
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Looking much bigger when they are this close…
This ostrich is trying to outrun our vehicle.
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The gemsbok (oryx), one of the few animals which never seems
to look for shade
Even
in the heat of the day – incredible colorings |
Leaving the Makgadikgadi salt flats
and Etosha National Park behind, we finally go on our last safari before we
enter the land of sand dunes, wines, and civilization. It is hard to believe that 3-7 million years
ago, Etosha was a gigantic lake. The
area has very little shade yet animals rest against the smallest of bushes just
to get any bit of it. You will often see
antelopes resting next to a shrub ½ their size, tucking ever closer to obtain
maximum protection from the unforgiving sun.
A cheetah safari or was it?
Speaking of safari, the word comes
from safar/i which means to journey or expedition in Swahili and Arabic.
Not sure I would call what we did a
safari since the cheetahs are captive and fed regularly but it was a good
opportunity to watch, in action, these agile and graceful animals. A couple were tamed and lived with the
farmer’s household, walking among kids and dogs. The others were kept ‘wilder’ but fed
regularly. Instead of having the
cheetahs killed by farmers losing some of their cattle to them, the place we
visited is keeping them alive albeit, no longer in the wild.
There is a huge misconception that
cheetahs are the main killer of cattle, sheep or goats, but analysis of their
droppings shows that only 5% prey on farm animals, usually the desperately weak
ones.
Dogs have been introduced to protect
goat herds and it is working remarkably well.
Goat kills has gone down anywhere from 80% to 100%. The dogs involved are Anatolian (Kangal) dogs
originally from what is now Central Turkey.
They are placed with the herd when they are a few weeks old, so they can
bond with them. They live with them
permanently and deter hunters of all types: humans, jackals, or cheetahs. Their work is difficult and comes at a
price: snake bites, scorpion stings, baboon attacks, or cancer from exposure to
the harsh sun.
The
dogs have slowly been introduced since the mid 1980’s and helped bring the
cheetah population back up about 1,000 with fewer farmers feeling the need to
kill them from losing any of their herd.
Notice tail storage.
Little ones are black
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A special kind of sheep roams
Namibia, the Karakul sheep which are renowned for their ability to forage
and thrive under extremely harsh living conditions because of their ability to
store fat in their tails. Their
beautiful coat (should you support wearing fur) is sold under the brand name Swakara
and nicknamed the Black Diamond of the Namib Desert. It is black, very curly and shiny.
Two old cheetahs living with a farmer and his family
One was nearly 18 years old
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Did I say domesticated?
Kissing one of the farm dogs…
We could pet the cheetahs which I didn’t do but it was
offered
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The fight for meat share begins – five cheetahs circling
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The non-domesticated ones.
Ferociously fighting over meat.
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Whereas Namibia has few people, it has
many of the world’s remaining cheetahs with an estimated 3,000-4,000 specimens
living here. They are magnificent
animals that blend well with their environment.
It was a bit sad to be on our last safari, but the beauty of the animals
was uplifting. Their top speed of 60m/h
(100km/h) can be reached in 3 seconds making it the fastest animal in the world.
They mostly feed on small to medium size
antelopes but their sudden burst of speed leaves them exhausted, requiring a
recovery period before eating their prey, opening them to being robbed of their
food by lions, leopards, wild dogs or hyenas. This high speed is not enough to save them
from near extinction with grassland, their natural habitat, quickly
disappearing.
Watching these beautiful creatures
reminded me how little freedom is left to African animals. They are collared, chipped, fenced in,
followed by drones, helicopters, people, night light jeep tours, etc. Few, if any, are left alone anymore.
Loud, vicious, and brazen aggression
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Natives call this plant the kokerboom (quiver) tree. Part of the aloe family.
Beautiful
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Very young Himba girl without crown or anklets.
They are not shy and have incredible hairdos
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We stop to visit a supposedly
typical Himba village where approximately 30-35 women, 6-7 men, and 50+
children live. Of these 50+ children, we
are told only 5-6 go to school (usually only the oldest boy gets an education). As stated above, the region’s population
density is extremely low. This leads to
isolation and a secluded lifestyle which makes it easier for the Himba people
to hold on to their culture and traditional ways of life.
I had high hopes to see true village
living but who was I kidding? These
people are so used to receiving foreign visitors that even the smallest of kids
is trained to beg. They would take anyone
by the hand and lead them to where the women were selling their handicrafts. They knew how to use cameras and cell
phones. They were forceful and did not
easily take no for an answer, becoming upset if you refused to go with them like
I did. I finally distanced myself from
them, so I could observe and take a few pictures uninterrupted. I am
fully aware that my visit adds to their life change as well.
Following a subsistence style of living,
most true Himba are very thin and fit.
Many of the women in this village were fat, some near obese, making me
question their lifestyle. The place was also
littered with various plastic containers or bags.
A bit more research about this place
brought to light that the land was owned by a Namibian who did not live there
and only came back once in while to be with his wives. That this is just a business disguised as a
village. As our male tour guide spoke,
some of the women (most of whom do not speak English like our guide), would
make interesting faces, obviously not agreeing with what the guide was saying
but having to go along with the representation made to us. There were no signs of older generations or
teenagers – It was a made-up group of people, not an extended family-based
unit.
As with the Maasai Mara, the huts
only last about 5-6 years, termites having the better of the wood supporting
them. It also coincides with when most
of the food within fair walking distance of the village has been exhausted –
time to set up camp somewhere else. As
with the Maasai Mara, they are also missing 2-4 of their bottom teeth. Some say it helps with better pronunciation
of their language, others, that it is cultural, a symbol of maturity and beauty
of the Himba women (most educated Himba men no longer do this, nor do they wear
Himba clothing).
The indigenous, semi-nomadic
Himba people are hunter gatherers. Traditionally
working with skin and leather to make aprons, girdles and headdresses. They
craft jewelry making bracelets and neckbands out of copper-wire as well as
making baskets, pottery and musical instruments.
The Himba live under a patriarchal
system in terms of authority, but a matriarchal one in terms of economy.
On a day to day basis, life is generally conducted along the following
lines:
- Men – responsible mainly for herding livestock, killing animals for meat and cooking meat
- Women – responsible for finances, making porridge, caring for children, milking cows and goats.
- Children – responsible for fetching water and fire wood, herding goats and cows and just being kids!
Extended
family members live in an onganda (homestead). This is typically a circle of
huts and working shelters around a sacred ancestral fire (okuruwo). Both the
fire and the livestock are closely tied to their veneration of the dead, the sacred fire representing ancestral protection
and the sacred livestock allowing ‘proper relations between human and ancestor’.
The chief’s home’s door faces the door of the kraal. Himba people are animists and their supreme
being is called Mukuru. The way they communicate with their ‘God’ is through
the holy fire. The smoke of the holy fire rises towards the heaven which
enables them to communicate with their ancestors who stand in direct contact
with the Supreme Being. This is where
all male circumcision and teeth are removed before puberty to get them ready
for marriage. Between that fire and the hut of the headman of the
village, there is an imaginary line which should never be crossed by visitors.
Village huts among the acacia trees
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Animal kraal
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Cleaning dry animal skin
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Working with beads
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One of the
most remarkable Himba traits is that women are not allowed to use water for
washing. This implies themselves and their clothes. Again, according to the
elderly this dates back to the great droughts where water was scarce and only
men were allowed access to water for washing purposes. Apart from applying red
ochre paste (otjize) on their skin, Himba women do take a daily smoke bath to
maintain personal hygiene. They put some smoldering charcoal into a little bowl
of herbs (mostly leaves and little branches of Commiphora [myrrh] trees) and
wait for the smoke to ascend. Thereafter, they will bow over the smoking bowl
and due to the heat, they will start perspiring. For a full body wash they
cover themselves with a blanket so that the smoke gets trapped underneath the
fabric. Himba women smell like tanned
animal hide or leather. It is a very earthy, lovely smell.
Getting
ready for her daily smoke ‘bath’
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Their most striking feature is their
intricately decorated hair styles. It takes
up to 12 hours to put together. The
Himba women used to use hay or goat hair but now they buy plastic hair
extensions (I found many of them on the ground while walking around the
village).
Bracelets always cover what they
consider the most private area of the body, their ankles. Some have lines or notches, each representing
one of their children. Some have
speculated that these anklets are to protect them from snake bites, but they walk
barefoot, and the anklets are not very tall so I do not know it this applies or
not.
When young, hair design is in front of face
Designed to help her avoid male attention
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Great place to see various Himba hairdos can be found here.
The
Himba people stick to porridge. Every morning and evening they heat some water,
wait until it boils, and put some flour in it, maybe add some oil and food is
served. The flour is mostly from maize but from time to time you might
find some mahangu flour as well. Mahangu is another name for pearl millet,
it is a very popular crop in Namibia since it performs well in soils with low
fertility. On rare occasions, such as weddings, the Himba do eat meat but this
is more an exception than a rule.
Namibia is where Germany learned
genocide, though that word hadn’t yet been coined. Between the summer of 1904 and spring of
1907, the Imperial German Army killed around 80,000 of the 100,000 Herero and
10,000 of the 19,000 Nama people. It is
amazing there are any left today.
Himba
culture states a sign of wealth is signified by the horns on your grave
(referring to the number of cattle owned).
The ‘erembe’ crown that women wear is meant to resemble cattle horns.
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