Travel makes one modest;
You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.
Gustave Flaubert
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White terns flying above lagoon |
Our second Tuomatu atoll and it’s just as windy, cloudy, and
stormy as it was in Tikehau so we don’t get to see as much as we’d like but
cannot complain as we watch sailboats and catamarans wildly pitching and
bucking side to side or up and down at anchor.
They are waiting for a nice weather window to get out of here and some have
been here for nearly a week…
We thought
we felt trapped visiting atolls by land rather than by water but it seems we
may have the best deal after all. On the
first atoll we stayed on the lagoon side, here we are on the ocean side. Better breeze to keep things cooler. Even though it is winter, weather is still
very balmy. Winter is supposed to be the
drier season and to date it doesn’t feel very dry.
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White tern in dead tree at edge of lagoon |
Their publicity claims that Rangiroa is the 2nd
largest atoll in the world but it’s more in the ranks of 23rd. It could fit Tahiti inside its borders – it
is very large.
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Palm tree shadows in shallow lagoon |
We visit with our friends on Sundance who made it to the
Marquesas a day before us. Many boaters like them managed
to only visit 2 or so atolls while we visited all of the Society Islands, and 2
atolls (at a speed of 400+ knots!). Even
by boat, they cannot visit other areas of the lagoon for the winds are too
strong. They stay at anchor in what is
considered the most protected lagoon and yet they are still moving around too
much for a restful night sleep. If they
want to visit what else Rangiroa has to offer they have to pay for guided
visits by locals with powerful small boats who are not currently offering any
excursions due to the inclement weather...
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Baby palms, mature palms, beach line |
Rangiroa has a green lagoon where the sand is so white that
the overhead palm trees reflect their green foliage in the water making the water
a beautiful green. It has a blue lagoon
that is used as a shark nursery for two types of sharks: the black tipped and lemon. There is also an area called God’s Aquarium,
a favorite of divers and snorkelers. It
has the reef island, a motu still covered with jagged pieces of reef of many
shapes, one in particular becoming somewhat of a Jacuzzi with the right
waves/tide. ‘Vin de Tahiti’ grows its
grapes here and makes 3 white wines and one rosé. Two of their wines have won silver medals in
Parisian competitions two years in a row…
We will try to find a bottle or two when we return to Tahiti just to say
we have tried wines grown in corals. Before
deciding on growing vines here, the owners went to all 5 archipelagos to decide
which one had the best growing conditions.
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Even in 20 knot winds, the locals paddle |
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The birds face the wind - waiting |
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...and waiting... |
There is a pearl farm (Gauguin’s Pearl) but with the prices
of pearls tumbling they went from 70 full-time employees 5 years ago to now
only 20 part-time employees. Legitimate Japanese buyers of pearls stopped
attending pearl auctions when it was discovered that many others would not go
through legal channels to buy pearls making it an unfair market for the ones
who did.
The government is trying to
legitimize the French Polynesian market again but it will take a while to
recover from this and the fact that there are too many pearls being produced. Grafting for other pearl farms in French
Polynesia is done here. They have the
best conditions to grow young oysters and pearls when they are in their most
sensitive stage of growth. They also
work the nacre once an oyster is done producing their pearls (maximum of three
per oyster). They can make beauty
products with the powdered nacre, buttons, inlays, jewelry, purses, pareo ties,
etc. Many beautiful nacre carvings can
be found.
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Made of over 400 flowers in a twist pattern - Thank you Manahiri |
The foul weather leaves us more time to meet people since we
cannot move around too much. We stop at
a small street side café and fall in love with Loic and Manahiri from New
Caledonia. They are so much fun to speak
with and serve great food at a good price.
Manahiri offers me a flower necklace – now flower necklaces are given at
arrival as welcoming gifts and they come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. Most foreigners receive the $3-$5 version made
of about 30-40 flowers. Most weddings,
funerals, and important people receive the $35-$50 version, much more
complicated in design and with 10-15 times the amount of flowers. Manahiri gave me the $50 version!!! Not sure why – she was just in the mood to
make someone happy – she’s that type of person.
If you stop in Rangiroa look for Rangiroa Plage Lodge and look for their
little café Snack la Roulotte… You will
not regret it.
We unknowingly chose a pension where the wife is the baker
for Rangiroa… You can imagine the
breakfasts we are being served each morning - - - easy on the palate, not
easy on the waistline… Delicious warm
and fresh croissants, pains au chocolat, sesame seed baguettes, homemade
pamplemousse marmalade, Jesuits (a type of pastry with almonds), etc.
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Shrine made with pearl oyster shells |
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Close up of shrine |
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Three small tombs - unmarked |
We also tastes Taioro, something the Tahitians eat for Sunday
breakfast, a concoction of very finely grounded coconut (more finely grounded
than when making coconut milk), mixed with lime or lemon, green onions, and
pearl oyster muscle (whatever part of the pearl oyster is edible)… The pearl farm gives the spent oyster ‘meat’
to the locals under one condition, that they use it for themselves, not try to
profit from it by selling it to others.
Sounds like a good deal to me.
Locals, who agree, bring a bucket to the farm where it will be filled up
for them.
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Pink to turquoise to green to blue hues |
We notice the lack of gardens around here. Fewer vegetables and fruits can be found than
the Society or Marquesas Islands. Our
host, Gilbert, tells us he tried growing tomatoes, peppers, etc, even imported
good soil but was confronted with continual attacks by insects that finally had
something good to eat. He would’ve had
to resort to using too many chemicals to grow food and decided it wasn’t worth
the effort. However the vineyard on the
other motu is working on receiving their organic label so there is a way to get
this to work…
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Another gingerbread pattern |
We miss having fruits - - - hard to find in the
Tuomatus. At one store we saw oranges
but when another customer asked about purchasing them, they were told they were
reserved for someone else. Other than
fruit juices and coconut and at times bananas, we have not been able to find
fruits here. Thankfully we were still
carrying some of the apples we bought in the Society Islands.
Dive club gives tide charts in Fakarava, the neighboring
atoll only 200 km from here yet they cannot figure out the tides here in
Rangiroa… Therefore the passes can be
tricky.
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Benitier (small giant clam) |
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Sharks circling |
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Close-up of one smaller specimen |
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Mike watching - black tips are easy to spot |
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Fish eating discarded coconut |
We take a speed boat to the blue lagoon on the only day we
had nice weather. It took us 40 minutes
to do the 30 km to get there on the way out but 70 minutes on the way
back. Winds were still strong and the
waters very choppy. It was worth the
trip and to get out of our room at the pension…
We also walked to Bird Island nearby.
Pictures tell more than words.
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Black tern nesting |
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Baby showing its head |
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White tern pair |
Other tidbits:
- We have yet to see anyone with dryers in all of our travels in French Polynesia. Everything is dried outside on clothes lines. It makes for stiff towels at every pension we’ve stayed at – just like home sweet home.
- In the Tuomatus, they collect and drink rain water – not good for our consumption. One has to purchase bottled water.
- In most of French Polynesia, they import frozen French fries from Idaho…. Instead of cutting their own potatoes…
- The first and last moons rather than being sideways ( or ) are more like a bowl right side up or upside down…
- Who would have ever thought we’d be tired of poisson cru (raw fish) in any form: sashimi, sushi, carpaccio, etc.
- Who would have ever thought we’d be tired of baguettes, croissants, pains au chocolat, etc… Give me oats, fruits or veggies – please.
- In Marquesas and Societies we could have firi-firi (donuts) any day of the week, here only on Sundays…
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Sharks and fish in about 5 meters of water |
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Coming closer to the surface - attracted by boaters who usually feed them |
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Splashing is starting to happen |
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Feeding frenzy is happening |
Only one more atoll and we are back to Papeete for one night
before heading to the Austral Islands where we heard they have 50 knot winds and the
weather is truly wintery. Yikes.
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