You'll miss the best things if you keep your eyes shut.
Dr. Seuss
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Bénitier (giant small clam)
Although they come in different colors the blue ones are my favorites |
We thought we were in a bind when the freight boat we had
planned on boarding to come to the Austral Islands decided to change course, not
caring of the impact it also has on the local farmers and fishermen. They plan the picking of their crops/fish/seafood
around the arrival of that boat. If the
boat is a week ahead or behind, crops are not picked on time or have been
picked too long ago. This is especially
true when dealing with flowers, fragile fruits, vegetables or fish/seafood,
making them no longer sellable. It also
means some stores run out of items: diesel, gasoline, cream, fresh fruits and
veggies, etc.
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Mairie (town hall) - quaint |
We, at least, had the choice of coming here by plane with
some quick last minute reorganizing – something the farmers or fishermen cannot do.
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Smiling female tiki - The other two tikis are in the Tahiti Museum
We had seen a smiling tiki in the Marquesas and were assured it was the ONLY one in French Polynesia |
Lonely Planet calls Raivavae the Bora Bora of 50-75 years
ago. This description lacks originality
but is somewhat true. The waters in the
lagoon around Raivavae are crystal clear and aquamarine. The lagoon is beautiful, the island quiet and
crossed by a hike-able crest. However,
the lagoon is not nearly as navigable as the one in Bora Bora for it is riddled
with reef potatoes. Every time I read
such a description I hope that they don’t ever become the new Bora Bora, that
they keep their identity and not sell out to tourism. There is much more agriculture in the
Austral Islands, they are recognized somewhat as the breadbasket of French Polynesia. They
grow tomatoes, citrus, coffee, carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cucumbers, zucchinis,
pumpkins, taro, bananas, avocados, etc.
Things grow so fast in this lush region that the first time
we try we fail to locate the trail to the highest point, Mt Hiro at 437 meters
or approximately 1,400 feet. Being late
in the afternoon we are not too distraught by our misadventure and wander about
the island to see what will come up.
Wouldn’t you know we come across the Airport Chief and his wife. They had moved here only 3-4 months prior and
had already climbed the summit twice.
They gave us the directions we needed for the following day’s
exploration. We had asked a local young
adult and to our dismay, although he had been raised here, he had never been to
the top and didn’t know how to get there.
How can you live on less than 40 square kilometers and not know every
inch of it by the time you are 12 years old?
That seems so inconceivable to us! They wished us luck and had hoped to come
along but had to work that day. The
airport only receives three flights a week – not exactly backbreaking work.
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Steep rugged cliffs |
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Copra goes to Tahiti in these bags - You see them in brown burlap or white plastic everywhere |
We had to buy a long sleeve shirt for Mike – try to find
such an item in Tahiti where it hardly ever goes below 80F! We managed to find something for him just
before our departure – We hadn’t planned on being in cooler climes. We are reminded, although it messes with our
minds, that the North part of these islands is actually the one facing the hot
sun of the afternoon, not the South part.
So North is South and South is North… North is drier, South is greener.
It does mess with you a little when you see the sun to the East and think –
well – stop thinking from the northern hemisphere way or you’ll get turned
around.
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Our front yard - well landscaped |
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Beautiful flowers |
Other than the air being cooler and North being South we
notice that the local language sounds a lot more like Chinese than Tahitian to
our unpracticed ears. The intonation is
much more like the singing of that oriental language. Our host and her son even look quite Asiatic.
Unfortunately smoking cigarettes still is rampant. The visiting French and the locals smoke
heavily and they do not have the consciousness to only smoke out of doors, or
away from non smokers, something we have become accustomed to in Canada, the
US, and even Mexico… Other than the
Marquesas, we have been surrounded by smokers everywhere in French Polynesia.
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Drying pandanu leaves for making of hats, mats, purses, bags, curtains, etc. |
We visit a couple of artisans shops and see the expected
woven hats, mats, bags, crowns, door or window decorations but unfortunately fail
to see the products being made. We like
to purchase from the person(s) making the art piece so we can feel their energy,
get to know them, and also be assured we are not buying something that has been
made in China or Taiwan and resold as Polynesian art…
There is also much jewelry made from mother of pearl, again,
no one is around working on any of the pieces we see so we don’t buy.
We hardly see a soul even though we walked nearly the whole
island. We are told everyone is either
in their field or fishing. Fields all
seem to be further away from the road and/or behind tall edges so it’s hard to
see anything. When we do get a peek at
what’s behind these edges we are always charmed by beautiful gardens and
colorful homes. Some people prepare and
dry the famous pandanu leaves for the various types of weavings they
make.
Few tourists invading these islands mean much fewer vehicles
invading the roads. It is a lot more
peaceful, quiet, and clean.
Crickets have the air, we barely hear the surf since the
reef is far away and the winds are nil.
Geckos take over with their clicking sounds when the lights come on at
night. The further we go away from the
Equator, the shorter the days and the taller the tidal ranges. We enjoy the Southern Cross in the show of
stars above.
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Female rock (read legend below) |
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Our host Linda and male rock |
After showing us the only remaining tiki on the island, our
hostess Linda tells us the legend of the male rock and of the female rock. Before I get to that let me mention that this
tiki was female, was missing an ear, and was SMILING! We were told in the Marquesas that there were
no other smiling tikis and that few; very few tikis were females. We must have just lucked out!
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Going on daily pirogue practice |
Back to the legend it goes as follows: "After some village dispute it was decided
that whoever would move a rock the furthest before the rooster would crow the
following morning would win. A man and a
woman were given the task. The man being
stronger quickly moved the rock to the edge of the lagoon but took a quick rest
after working so hard. Upon seeing this,
the woman imitated the call of a rooster and the man, thinking it was already
morning left the rock where it was and went to sleep. The woman had time to move her rock all the
way to the middle of the lagoon before the real rooster began to sing and won
the contest." The one interpretation of
this story says that the woman used her brain rather than her strength. Men prefer to say the woman cheated… I’ll let you decide how you feel about this
legend.
At our arrival we didn’t receive a flower necklace and
thought it was just another pension who no longer cared for the tradition but
we were reminded that we were supposed to arrive a day later by boat – they
didn’t have time to make a flower necklace.
Instead they would make one for us and give it to us at our departure,
which they did. It meant that when we
received another necklace upon our arrival in Tubuai, we were loaded with two
beautiful and colorful necklaces laced with a little basil to supposedly help
ward off the bugs.
Being that there are more colorful leaves than flowers at
this time of the year on the islands – remember it is nearly winter solstice here
(only a week to go), we get many leaves, some seeds, and fruit pieces in the
necklaces. It is very creative,
beautiful, and sometimes very nicely perfumed.
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From the top of Mt Hiro |
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To the blue lagoon below |
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Beautiful, peaceful |
Mount Hiro’s hike was very steep and slippery but we managed. Going up was easier than sliding down. We were glad it hadn’t rained the prior two
days or it would’ve been much worse. The
view of the entire lagoon and island was spectacular from that vantage
point. Good way to start the day. We explore the other end of the island when
we come back down. We are very tired
when we finally settle for the day and can hardly stay awake for a delicious
dinner of poisson cru, vegetables au gratin, BBQ ribs from grandpa’s old pig,
soursop in coconut milk, cooked wahoo; too much to choose from really.
Around the table are people from Iran,
Switzerland, Germany, France, Canada, and US…
Two itinerant medical people are also there. She is a midwife, he is a GP and they do
various rotations around the islands.
She stays only in the Austral Islands, he covers all archipelagos of French
Polynesia. They were also supposed to be
on the boat that never came to get us, waiting for its arrival – whenever that
will be. Meanwhile they have many
stories to share and help us understand the local medical system.
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Before the descent |
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Ferns 5 feet tall - Runway in background |
We watched as the roosters, chickens, and cats fight over
the grounded coconut left from dinner’s preparations. I never knew cats could be fans of
coconut. Speaking of plants, we see tamanu
grows here too but it is of a different species. The tamanu found in the Society Islands is
used to make oil; here it is only used for its seeds in the making of
necklaces.
Acacia trees here too are taking over but we see that most
have complete bands of bark missing from their trunks, a way to kill them and
get rid of this invading specie. We had
hoped that being this far away invasive species wouldn’t have such strong hold
but they seem to.
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View from reef motu (islet)... |
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...to island of Raivavae |
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Discarded bénitier (giant small clams) shells |
We attempt a quick kayak trip to a nearby motu (islet)
before our flight takes us to our next island.
The way there is calm and easy and we reach our destination in about 20
minutes. As we get there we barely have
time to walk around we feel the wind pick up, we see the clouds build up and
darken, we hurry back before a storm makes things worse. We take 45 minutes to get back with winds and
waves interfering with our progress. We
make it in time before windier conditions show up. At least we had time to see the motu’s view
of the island. We were told to beware of
sudden changes in weather in the Austral Islands – there you have it!
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Gone fishing |
We find no snack bars, no restaurants, and no side street
vendors. Only a couple of stores sell the
basics: oil, spices, flour, frozen meats, veggies, etc. People cook at home and grow the majority of
their food. It’s much more back to
survival mode than other islands we’ve been to who depend way more on what the
boat will bring that time…
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Saving the bananas from the rats |
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