There are no foreign lands.
It is the traveler only who is foreign.
Robert Louis Stevenson
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Finally a truly crystal clear aquamarine bay |
While biking on the island of Huahine we noticed on the entrance of a school the following sign:
"Two teachers at such and such school are on strike today while
the 2 teachers at this other school are not…"
Only in a French country? A week later we are on a third island and the strike still continues…
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Reef breaks up waves before they reach anchored boats |
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Rainbow reflects in the water
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We can see why Huahine is called the garden or wild island. Each house is surrounded by very large well
kept yards. Plants are the focal point
of everything you see. Smells, colors,
textures, all from nature – it is beautiful.
Since Tahiti we have been doing a lot more biking. It’s a great way to see all the islands given
that none are so large that you can cover them in less than 3-4 days. Drivers are very courteous to pedestrians and
bikers – unlike home … It can be a detriment to the ones who visit outside of French
Polynesia where drivers aren’t so kind.
They get hurt thinking people will stop for them.
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Small boat lifting device - Easily keeps keel and motor out of water |
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Easy |
So we rent another falling apart bike, the only kind we find
in French Polynesia. They all come equipped
with brakes and 18 speeds but only expect one of them to work (the speed it is
currently on), and hope for brakes.
Thankfully most of the islands are flat and it still beats walking
around. I don’t think any of them
understand the concept of how bike works or how to fix them. We are seriously considering getting folding
bikes on Déjàlà for our return to the South Pacific.
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Entrance to the small museum Fare Potee |
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Built over the water like their meeting houses used to be |
We visit yet another small local museum and start to see a
pattern that makes us chuckle. Each
museum we visit expands on the idea that the islands were first colonized by their
people: Marquesans think they were first, Tahitians think they were first,
etc. It’s hard to know the truth but
we’re not sure it really matters. They
are all very friendly, yet feisty and stoic people with great smiles and hearts
if you get to know them a little. Nearly
none of them are pure blood. Over the
last 100 years, they have all married with people from other places. Tahitians
in general have been much more influenced by tourism than Marquesans making
them more difficult to approach – they are more guarded at first. At this museum, we are asked to remove our
shoes – that walking barefoot on woven bamboo flooring is part of the
experience. We happily obliged.
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Bamboo flooring of museum |
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What is left of platform (ahu) built several centuries ago |
Huahine has many scenic bays, cliffs, beaches, motus (small
reef islands) with mostly clear aquamarine water.
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Club BED (instead of Med) - - - Clever pension name |
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Bordeaux in boxes |
We first stayed in the main town of Fare to get a feel for
the island. Everyone compares it to the
Moorea of 20 years ago! It is saddening
to think what it could become if it follows in the tracks of Moorea. The locals all vow it will not happen to
their island. They are REBELS and
welcome the likes of them from Brittany to Corsica, to help fight their cause.
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Pirogue has seen better days |
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One of many colorful steeples |
As much rebel thoughts they may have however, they already
survive thanks to tourism therefore I am not sure how effective they have been
– pensions, hotels, motels, arts, crafts, restaurants around this tiny island
all cater to tourists. Without them, I’m
not sure what income they would have. A
staunch ‘rebel’ from Corsica and proud of saying so survives by painting pareos
he sells to tourists in Moorea or here…
His pareos have more masculine motifs: a whale with Marquesan like
tattoos of the local ferns, shark teeth, the island’s silhouette, etc. Up to this time we had only seen pareos meant
for women. It was a nice change.
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Fa'una Nui Fish Traps - Using current and stone walls to capture fish |
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Different view of Fa'una Nui |
Just outside the main super market are small farmers’ stalls
filled with fruits, vegetables, or home baked goods. We buy mape (their version of chestnut) and
coconut bread – delicious with your morning coffee. It’s interesting, once again, to witness large
grocery chains letting locals compete right in their front yard. Stores in the US would never allow this.
Barbadine, edible small fruits growing on vine
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Beautiful purplish-gray hibiscus - Only grows at higher altitude |
We visit Eden Park aptly named if you are a plant lover like
me. The owner has over 100 trees, most
giving very good fruits from countries around the world. As shown in pictures in earlier post, we
tasted egg yolk fruit, ice cream fruit, sour fruits, and seen chocolate mousse
fruits unfortunately not yet ready to consume.
Passion fruit, dragon fruit, and many others – too many to remember or
try. Up from the Park is a path to a
panoramic view of three different bays around Huahine. The ½ hour walk up the hill is definitely
worth the effort – the view is magnificent.
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Cat whiskers white flower |
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Unknown misty white flower |
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How to park a pirogue along the road |
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How to abandon an old truck along the road |
Visiting around we speak to a local who tells us about one
of the nearby passes entering the lagoon called Araara and its dangers. Araara, in their language, means ‘Keep your
eyes peeled’ or ‘Watch out!’ Not a safe
pass to enter the lagoon except in very mild weather. Ruins can be found to explore by diving
around the pass weather permitting. We
haven’t heard of these ruins anywhere else in guide books – possibly only local
knowledge.
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Mosquito netting? Think again - it serves double function
Natural roofs host small critters - Netting against their droppings! |
We are at the end of the island where the winds seem to be
constant. It keeps things cooler and
less buggy. We watch as 8-10 chartered catamarans
motor by towards a bay nearby. They are
followed by a 44’ sailboat that turns around and comes back our way. The bay had become too crowded for them so
they anchored in front of our pension.
The manager of the pension said that in 5 years of working at the
pension she had never seen a boat anchor there.
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Comfortable overlooking our little private beach... |
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View from bungalow before arrival of sailboat |
We visited them and it was great to have some boat time,
reminding us that you meet so many people from everywhere and every
classes. In this case, we had French,
Italian, US and Canada, all meeting and sharing ideas, stories, etc. We are looking forward to being at sea on our
own boat again. Anchoring here is a
little easier since the tides never vary more than 20cm (3/4 foot).
The folks from that end of the island would like an ATM
machine, a small pharmacy and one infirmary so they do not have to drive to
town each time they need money, medicine, or a medical consultation. They want to stay small.
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Sunset over tiny motu |
We have hiked and biked 45-50 km combined (and are feeling
it!) but it’s great to get back in the swing of things. On our last day, we finally connect with
locals from a little town. They are
preparing for the annual festivities of their cultural center. We are quickly invited to attend but cannot
since we are leaving the island early the next morning. This is where sailing makes a huge difference
over tightly scheduled airline travel.
We could’ve stayed the extra time to visit with these kind people and
partake in a local event, not a guided tour or touristic attraction but real
life… Instead we had to go… not
completely willingly.
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Artist signing Mike's pareo |
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