Travel doesn't become adventure
Until you leave yourself behind.
Marty Rubin
|
On shuttle between airport and main island |
We almost didn’t come here due to the overall bad publicity
Bora Bora has amongst sailors and other types of travelers. True that it is touristic and expensive but
that is also true of anywhere else you go in French Polynesia to one degree or
another.
Some of the bad publicity comes
from other islands that are a little jealous of Bora Bora’s popularity. Some of the bad publicity comes from the
heydays when it was more crowded with tourists (and it still is in some parts
of Bora Bora). If you know where to hang
out you will not come across other tourists.
Some of the bad publicity comes from so many of the projects started by
the government, giving false hopes, that never come to fruition when political
parties change, etc.
|
Very clean lagoon of Bora Bora |
|
Marina that was never finished |
We stayed at a pension because of their more remote location. To our delight even though we were remotely located we didn't feel alone. Daniel and Loana took us ever
so kindly into their beautiful home letting us be who we wanted to be and at
whatever speed we wanted to.
|
Many cottages have gingerbread accents - The cottage we had to ourselves |
Right away we were invited to dinner with their neighbors to
celebrate mother’s day weekend.
Champagne, beer, and wine were flowing along with great food (even a
couscous soup – quite a change) and chocolate cake. What you have to understand is that the price
of alcohol here is 4-7 times higher than in the US. Anyone offering you something to drink is being
VERY generous. Yves and his wife Flo
made us feel like family instantly. Yves
shared the history of his grandfather’s house he was so lucky to inherit. It used to be a bar with naked women drawn on
the ceiling. The bar served US GI's back
in the 1940's.
We hike to the top of a crest line for a better view of Bora
Bora’s amazing landscape and waters. It
is known as the best lagoon of the Leeward Islands and we have to agree. The water is clean and Bora Bora is the first
island with a complete septic system so no grey or black water runs into the
lagoon. The islands have until 2015 to
comply. Even Tahiti hasn’t totally complied
yet.
That afternoon we bike to the southern end of the island and
stumble upon the touristic part which we quickly flee from. If you don’t go there you hardly notice
tourism exists. As we bike back
rain starts pouring down so we hide under the eaves of a small grocery
store. One of the locals, obviously not
very rich, comes out and hands us a baguette.
We tell him he should keep it but he insists we take it. He’s just another example of joyful moments
we’ve had in Bora Bora where tourism has
gone down 32% in the last 10 years (that % is for all of French Polynesia but
since 50% of the tourism comes here, Bora Bora is hit the hardest).
While we hike and bike, our host, Daniel goes deep fishing with two friends and they come back with a new type of fish for us to try for dinner: roi, in local jargon (coral cod), a red fish with absolutely delectable pure white flesh melting in your mouth. The best I ever had. We also taste carangue (trevally).
|
Klaus, a friend of the family, feeding a ray |
|
We are told to keep our hands up |
|
Why is Mike always behind me? |
|
OK Mike is alone with the sharks |
|
And a ray |
|
Sharks drifting by |
The following day we go around the lagoon to swim with the
stingrays and the black tip sharks. The
rays are quite aggressive when food comes out.
They can tell when someone is holding up food even if they are still in
the boat or the food is still in a bag.
They can push you over, weighing between 20 and 30 kilos, when reaching
for food. They feel like wet mushrooms
and are quite slithery. The safest place
to pet them is between the eyes, avoiding the tail at all costs. The sharks stay away; we keep a safe distance
from each other.
We also stop to see live corals filled with amazing colors,
giant clams, etc. We are in 7 meters of
water so clear we think we are only in 2-3 meters. The clarity of the water can actually cause
problems. We heard of 3 cases, this year
alone, of people diving off their chartered boats to break their necks or backs
thinking they are in much deeper water than they are, hitting bottom much too
quickly. One of our guides (we have 3
just for the 2 of us) dives to the bottom to show us the quality of the
sand. He comes back with a big handful
and gives it to us. It literally is the
consistency of talc power mixed with a little clay and pure white… As Loana says Mother Nature is very kind to
us. We hunt for a moray eel our hosts
know of but it won’t come out to visit – stubbornly remaining in its cave
(probably not hungry).
|
Incredible colors |
|
With... |
|
or without Mike... |
|
Or a sailboat... |
We visit a motu owned by people Loana knows. We have lunch there and then an elderly lady
(relative of the owner of the motu) teaches me how to make hats out of palm
leaves. She can make anything out of
palm leaves: fans, hats, floral arrangements, crowns, veranda post decorations,
bowls, etc. Men play bocci ball or rest in lawn
chairs with a Hinano under the trees.
The view is spectacular; we enjoy the rest and recuperation especially
after nearly 7 weeks of non-stop traveling in French Polynesia.
|
Our view from lunch at the motu |
|
Siblings talking while cutting palm leaves to weave |
|
Mamie making hat, our host Loana in yellow |
|
Klaus and I also try |
|
She is too quick to keep up with |
|
Klaus makes a different variation |
|
She doesn't even have to watch what she does |
|
I have to concentrate - so does Klaus |
|
Almost made it |
|
She had time to make 8 hats and 2 bowls while I made an attempt at one hat... |
We hate to leave for we truly enjoyed our time in Bora
Bora. We are thankful we didn’t follow
the rumors indicating it was a place to avoid.
We had a great time here. We made
excellent connections and laughed our hearts out with stories told by a woman
with connections to New Caledonia on how they view Tahitians and vice versa.
Don’t make the mistake of bypassing Bora Bora if you have the
time to come here, please do yourself the favor.
From the oldest islands Bora Bora and Maupiti created some
4.5M years ago to Tahaa and Raiatea created about 2.5M years ago to the newest
of the bunch, Tahiti at a mere 1.5M years old…
We spent a great time in the Society Islands where, as the old timers
say, winter started for the dragonflies have arrived. We see them flutter around everywhere. It is cooler at night and a little windier.
|
Bowl used following morning for breakfast pastries |
No comments:
Post a Comment
We are always happy to hear from you but at times it may take a while to get a reply - all depends if we have access to the internet.