And if travel is like love, it is, in the end, mostly because
It's a heightened state of awareness, in which we are
Mindful, receptive, undimmed by familiarity
And ready to be transformed.
That is why the best trips, like the best
Love affairs, never really end.
Pico Iyer
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One of the immaculate parks in Papeete |
Arriving in Tahiti we go to our first pension and, by happenstance, we meet a fellow sailor and his wife. He is from Turkey, she is from Thailand. He was on his second circumnavigation, it was her first. She was fit and only 37 years old when she had 2 heart attacks in the Marquesas. She was lucky they weren’t in the middle of the ocean when it happened. She was treated in Tahiti and recovering at the pension. They still have plans to follow through to Thailand once she gets better. This, once again, reminded us why we have to do what we are doing now - - - life is so unpredictable.
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With their wildlife of course |
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Lighthouse from the 1800's |
Tahiti is too big a city to be beautiful and friendly but
you can find anything you want here. We
quickly figure out the layout and enjoy many strolls through the wilderness of
narrow streets filled with way too much traffic. French Polynesia is known for not having good
public transportation systems even for the locals – rush hour here can be
brutal.
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More churches per capita than anything we've seen before |
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Deads buried near beaches, in homes' front yards, cemeteries, parks... |
In one of our meanderings we came across traditional
dancing. About 40 women and 40 men
practicing for the upcoming July dance contest (as part of the Heiva).
They are mesmerizing. We went
back for a second night to witness a different type of dancing. The first night’s dancing was accompanied
solely by drums while the second night was accompanied by string instruments
and voices. Each had its own
characteristics and beauty. We lucked
out to see the ‘real’ thing. Many
resorts and hotels offer ‘traditional dance’ shows but the dancers are no
longer into it – they only do it for tourists – not the same animal. We even got to hear the corrections given to
the dancers by the teachers. It helped
us know what to look for in the various dances, what was appropriate, what was
not. It was a great educational moment. We wished we could be here in July to see the
finalists.
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First few roulottes setting up |
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Tables and chairs added |
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Same place next morning - all is clear |
Of course we saw the famous roulottes of Tahiti. For 30 years (since 1984) and each night around 6pm
roulottes (think food RV's or mobile diners) come near the main dock downtown to
set up for the evening meal. Out of
these small vehicles come out signs, menus, tables, chairs, tablecloths,
washing station, food, napkins, utensils, etc. It’s
interesting and amazing to see how much can be stored in these vehicles. Watching the well organized set up is half
the fun. It takes them nearly an hour to
get everything ready. We can choose from
pizza to Chinese food or from steak and fries to Brittanny’s famous buckwheat
crepes with real andouille sausages and apples…
Of course fish and veal abound in various forms with vanilla sauce,
another Tahitian special. The next
morning, the dock is empty and it would be impossible to know the roulottes
ever existed the night before.
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Our guide Teiva posing for the obligatory corny picture by a waterfall |
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He looks more natural picking ferns |
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And our ride for the day... |
We hiked one of the major valleys of Tahiti. Our guide’s family owns the valley and is
fortunate that it contains a river large enough to be dammed and producing
electricity for the island (40% of power is hydroelectric, 60% diesel
generators)… They are doing well from the proceeds. Teiva, our guide from Tahiti-Discovery, used to be a well known
traditional dancer traveling the world to share this art with other countries. Age and injuries made him quit dance but he
still teaches it and guides people when he has time. We had an absolutely wonderful time with
him. He loved teasing us by starting
stories that would end on a cliff hanger where we would be holding our breath
only to find out he was not telling the truth.
We got taken quite a few times.
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OK - I'm wet - notice the plastic sandals from our guides
since we didn't have hiking shoes... |
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His turn - same sandals... |
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Comfy before another climb - surrounded by gold tinged ceiling |
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Angelina and Hiro - our wonderful guides |
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Ready for the last tube - headlights ON |
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Did I mention it was a rainy day? Marie-France going up, Mike next |
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Now going down... |
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Mike too - I think he's posing |
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Time to go down the waterfalls outside the tube |
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The group that made it with us |
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An eel waiting for food scraps while we had lunch |
Tahiti has awesome lava tubes to visit. Unlike lawsuit happy US where everything is
overdone when it comes to safety, here we were allowed to really climb wet
rocks, unattached in most cases, just holding on to plants, ropes, other people
or rocks. You appreciate these tubes
much better after all the hard, perhaps a little dangerous, work to get
there. We were sore and tired at the end
of the day but it was worth EVERY step, dunk in the river, or penny.
Angelina, our guide from Reva Trek, was the first Polynesian
women to obtain high mountain climbing certificate. This was rated a medium climb and although we
consider ourselves in good shape, we are really glad we didn’t attempt one of
her difficult climbs. We need to get in
better shape for these. We were sore and
tired for a couple of days after that great day in nature. The tubes are large and one needs headlights
for the visit (supplied by the guide).
The tubes’ ceilings are covered with bright yellow lichen that looks
like gold when lighted. It’s
beautiful. Before entering the third
tube we had to go through a waterfall - - - good thing the water is
just cool enough to be comfortable but not numbing.
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One of several new murals in Papeete - This one called Tiki Origins |
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Beautiful |
We happen to be visiting while they are getting ready for a
graffiti contest – many new and beautiful murals appear around the city.
We learn a lot from our kind hosts at Pension Tutehau (type
of mango tree)… They are extremely warm,
kind, and loving life. They have lived
in Fakarava for 2 years and have connections on several of the islands we are
visiting, being a trove of information anytime we need it.
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Sugar cane juice with a twist of lime, sweet and sour - yum - locally grown |
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Fruits, veggies, fish - colors, colors |
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Grinding coconut from shell for fresh grated coconut or coconut milk (if pressed) |
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Too beautiful to eat rainbow colored parrot fish - tasty |
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Taro roots |
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Long green or purple beans |
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Banana leaf hiding banana bread |
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Brown/purple banana bread - very sticky but good |
We go to the Sunday market with Martine, our host. The market is open from 3-9am and one needs
to be there early as most things are gone by 8am. There we purchase new meals-to-go to try
out. Everything is still warm, newly
home cooked and delicious. It’s a lot
less expensive than going to the restaurant.
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