Life in the Fast Lane or Life in Traffic?

Living in the present,

the minute you are doing it consciously,

the minute it ceases to be.

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Jimnah Kimani – painting in a Nairobi café overlooking our table…

Somewhat representative of the feeling one gets when visiting Africa

If I had to describe Nairobi in one word it would be TRAFFIC!  This city was never built with so many vehicles in mind.  If heavy bollards were not lining the curbside of sidewalks, cars would be driving there too.  What, at home, is considered a two-lane road, is, here, easily used by three or four lanes of chaotic and frantic traffic.  How side mirrors and bumpers still exist on most vehicles remains a mystery to me.  Footways and any space buffer between roads and businesses are used for parking cars in any direction.  Many are double parked making me wonder how anyone gets out when needed.  I had expected many people but never this much circulation!

Light mid-afternoon traffic near university and the ubiquitous unfinished building

Much more maneuverable motorcycles, thankfully, are still used in large numbers easing the growing pains of a society running into traffic woes.  Many are taxis (called boda-bodas - from border to border) for one passenger.  A motorcyclist with an extra helmet and a reflective vest is a dead giveaway.  As the buses around town, some are heavily and colorfully decorated using anything from bright green AstroTurf to mirror pieces, purple chenille to neon-yellow plastic.  Unlike buses, they sometimes use sidewalks or go against traffic to gain grounds, pedestrians beware!  

True traffic seen from restaurant’s second floor window – find your way Waldo!

Most stop lights are not working or are being ignored when they do.  No one seems to know how to use roundabouts.  Cops are apparently hired to chaperon congested areas.  They utilize their batons to hit the hood of the vehicle they want to stop.  It resembles a game of chicken, cop with small black baton against vans or buses.  Eyes fixed on the driver’s eyes.  Who is going to give way first?  No one seems to take it too seriously; no fines are issued but bribes may be asked.  Traffic is very heavy and hectic, making it dangerous and difficult to cross a street.  You are best to wait for several people to walk with, safety in numbers.  A reminder that they drive on the ‘other (or what we call wrong) side’ of the road – an awareness that takes a few days to sink in, if ever. 

Boda-bodas with yellow vested drivers and spare helmet

Nothing like AstroTurf to entice more customers

It is estimated that the city’s traffic major congestion costs the economy about US$350 million annually in terms of lost man-hours, fuel and pollution.  Population of the city proper has increased from 350,000 (1963) to over 3.3 million today with matching increase in vehicles flooding the roads.  That population is expected to nearly double again by 2025!  Matatus (buses) have been used by the majority (50-60%) while cars make 16% of the ridership, the remainder using motorcycles.  Even with 47% of the population walking to/from work, Nairobi’s traffic is the second worst in the world behind Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), India.  Riders can typically expect to take up to two hours to complete a mere 9 miles (15km) journey.  A few bike but, in general, it is too dangerous to do so.

Speaking of matatus, “Matatus are Nairobi and Nairobi is matatus”.  London has red double decker buses, New York, yellow taxi cabs, the Philippines, Jeepneys, New Delhi, rickshaws, Bangkok, tuk-tuks, Mexico City, VW Beetles, and Nairobi, matatus.  Matatus are unique in that they are usually covered with very eccentric and colorful artwork.  Any subject can be represented from the famous to pop culture, from music to gambling, from religion to cartoons, from athletes to revolutionaries.  The more outlandish, the more likely it is to attract passengers, even passengers who are willing to pay more for their ‘special’ ride.  It is nearly unlikely to comprehend Nairobi without its matatus, they have evolved to become more than just transportation, they are a cultural phenomenon. 

From Bob Marley to Che Guevara or One Love to Total Pain

Inside the matatus, inspirational quotes from people such as Mandela, Malcom X, Martin Luther King, or Obama grace the walls, something to read and make you ponder during the long rides.  Some even offer Wi-Fi.  Loud music help entice riders.  Matatus are privately owned and drivers seldom obey traffic regulations and are known to have many accidents. Although they are often full, drivers believe there is always space for one more so squeeze in!  Got to make a living!

The more u hate, the more i shine

Matatu is the local word for “three cents for a ride”.  Even though costlier today, the name has stuck.  The matatu industry is the largest employer in the ‘popular economy’.  A custom built matatu costs roughly US$20,000.  The art ranges from $200 to $2,500.  It provides livelihoods to mechanics, touts, fee collectors, drivers, artists, upholsters, and other associated businesses, affecting more than 300,000 people directly or indirectly.  The matatu industry is the only major business in Kenya that has continued to be locally owned and controlled. It has remained free from the influence of foreign aid or aid workers.  It is a homegrown industry that has survived subsidized competition, government interference, and systemic corruption but for how much longer?

'A good day is $40, and a hard day is $10 or nothing or sometimes jail.'  This statement comes from a matatu owner.  Nairobi has about 30,000 matatus operating within the city and 100,000 if you include the surrounding areas.  Often, they are forced to pay bribes ranging from US$10 to US$50 just to keep driving their route.  When you account for the fact that the average wage in Kenya is roughly US$115/month, this is a lot of money going to the ‘wrong’ hands.

Chinese in 2013, installed a multi-million-dollar urban surveillance system to help ease traffic and possibly lessen the chance of bribe requests.  The system meant that traffic police were not needed on the road and it is suspected they sabotaged the system so they could go back to bribing drivers.  Some claim the cartel is involved in this too but research on the subject is sketchy. 

Commuters are in such need for transportation that Uber has seen a huge market here.  It is the most popular market behind Cairo and Johannesburg.  

Can we pack just one more?  Leaving Nairobi for rural areas.

Not exactly what I expected to write about on my first day in Kenya but there you have it…  Not what you, the reader, expected as I came here for safaris to see animals...  But living in the present - this is what I became aware of.  Traffic took precedent over culture, food, or people and animals but we’ll get to that later.