Beware What You Wish For…

What would life be if

we had no courage to attempt anything?

Vincent Van Gogh

Maasai with stick, our vehicle, Pluto, in the background – we have reached Maasai village

We begin by driving partly along, then across, the Great East African Rift Valley, the longest of its kind in the world, (4,000 miles 6,450 km), so long, it can easily be seen from space.  It has yielded a trove of archeological finds, hence being named the cradle of humanity, helping researchers understand human ancestry better.  To be here, is awe inspiring and humbling. 

Great East African Rift Valley from roadside viewpoint

Africa

            A mystery

            A discovery

A journey

Africa

            The elusive

The bold

            The healer

Africa

            Make a wish

            Make it small

            Make it wise

Driving down a very long dusty road under repair with high expectations of the new wonders ahead.  Africa, something read or heard about but never seen nor visited. 

Passing several trucks overloaded with freshly harvested maroon and green sugarcane, workers sitting atop the oversized bundle of soon to be sweetener, wearing no glasses or head cover in the face of the very cold wind.  They are always happy and smiling, always waving at us, the foreigners (mzungus).  The scene reminded me of Tepic, in Mexico where too, sugarcane trucks hauling barely dressed workers atop the canes were heading to the mill, at times barely making it uphill, too heavily laden, engines groaning under the weight. 

Donkeys carrying water jugs or firewood are unhurriedly dodging goats and cows alongside the narrow road.  Women or girls walking by with water jugs as heavy as they can carry on their head.  Little girls transporting 2-4 liters, adults more than 5 gallons (20 liters).  They are masters at balancing each load whether they be water, tools, firewood, food, water, etc.  Moving slowly, artfully and carefully as they go.  Many spend an average of five hours a day (covering 3.7 miles or 6 km on average) fetching the precious lifesaving commodity.

We see miles of roads and railways built or upgraded by Chinese companies.  The foreign lettering covering signs everywhere.  In exchange for basic materials mined around the country?   In exchange for loans with high interest rates?  At what true cost is this progress coming?  The winner probably not Africa, now in a position of owing China.

Passing by tin shacks with the words “Jesus Loves You” on the roof.  Next to a mud and wattle hut coated in bright yellow.  Many homes or businesses covered with painted advertisement, becoming billboards for cell provider, paint, soap, or sodas companies.  Always something interesting to focus on.

Butcher shop, ‘choma’= braised or charred meat

Maize or millet is drying on old tarps along the road, chickens and donkeys meandering, no one seeming to mind that they may eat the desiccating grains.  No one seeming to mind that it is so close to roadways full of diesel fume spewing vehicles.  Veggie and fruit stalls are set up at each small village along the road.  Next to them are phonebooth size butcheries.  Meat is hung at room temperature, drying or aging, accompanied by the local flies.  No protection from the elements other than windows on three sides and simple hooks hanging from the ceiling.  

Starting early playing with tires

Boys are rolling old tires or bike rims ahead of them, guiding them with hands or one/two sticks.  A game they spend hours playing.  Most manufacture their toys.  Lack of money makes them very creative.  Nowhere in my 73 days here did I see new or discarded plastic toys.  Nowhere.

From walking to collect water or firewood, go to school or shepherding, running behind tires or handmade soccer balls, and hunting for days, no wonder Kenyans are well known for their running competence. 

Showing Gary, a toy car they made

Appearing from nowhere like colorful butterflies

We stop in what seems the middle of nowhere to eat a quick lunch.  The minute the tables are set, kids mostly, and a few adults, mysteriously appear from nowhere and surround us awaiting a handout or simply from curiosity.  We are told not to give them anything (money or food) as it teaches them to beg rather than stay in school.  It is difficult, coming from abundance, not to be allowed to spoil or help people without much.  

Carrying jug, bottle, packs, ready for school

This scenario repeats itself many times during our travels.  I’m not sure how they know where we are, but the process is always very quick.  Bodies coming out of the desert without a home in sight, as if moving mirages suddenly materializing.  One of the boys is wearing red ballerina shoes unaware of gender ‘protocol’, others mismatched ragged hand-me-down school uniforms, all carrying a small bowl or jug for their school food and water.  They are incessantly smiling and happy.  

More come from seemingly nowhere – some staying a safe distance, observing

Maasai Mara people are well-known for their high jumps while dancing or chanting, a strategy to charm a spouse.  The higher you jump, the more attractive you become.  The men are usually tall and thin and dressed in colorful fabrics.  In this area, mostly reds are worn but other groups use blues or oranges.  When viewed from a distance through the trees, they look like lively butterflies.  We are in Maasai country and will have the opportunity to visit one of the villages and our driver for the duration of the safari is Maasai.

They always carry a stick which they use as a seat, a cane, to work with cattle, or carry in the crook of their elbows behind their back.  That stick is a sign of power for the Maasai and even the ones who live in cities (going to school or trading goods) carry them.  Former president Daniel Moi was known to always carry his, even as president. 

Starting the welcoming dance and song

After many hours of driving, we finally see wildlife: baboons nonchalantly sitting on the road unphased by traffic (we go around them), wildebeest, antelope, impala, and springbok.  Cattle and goat interspersed with them as if a natural part of evolution rather than a human introduction. As we move further from the city there are more wild animals and fewer domesticated ones, their ratio slowly changing along the way.

Mother and child – stopping traffic

Finally at our camping destination, it was to be our first night under a very dark African sky sprinkled with a billion bright stars.  Finally, away from city lights, city sounds, city traffic, city stress.  Finally, nearer the animals we came here to see.  Finally feeling close to the ‘wild’ safaris.

We are surrounded by trees and can only gaze up at a smaller portion of the sky through the branches.  The darkness is deep and unforgiving.  Crickets sing loudly in what is left of the heat of the day.  We have just spent our first half day in the Maasai Mara National Park and are ready for a shower, a filling dinner and rest.

Before the rain

Tents have been set up by our driver and guide while we were on our safari, allowing us more time in the park.  We eagerly settle in while dinner is being cooked.  Our leader tells us we are having jackal for dinner, just to see our reaction, but it turns out to be good old spaghetti and meat balls.

Lightning and thunder are permeating the NE skies, moving our way.  We are assured that the mountains around us are too small for storms to settle in the area.  Guaranteed that it is not the season for ‘long’ rains yet and that we are safe.  Locals separate the rainy seasons in ‘short’ (autumn) and ‘long’ rains (spring).  This being January, spring is still a long time away.

Storm brewing over the Mara

As dinner preparations progress slowly, the rain grows in intensity, we all huddle in the only area with good cover.  Gradually, a terra cotta color river starts flowing under the outdoor dining table.  We watch as one inch becomes 2, 3, 5, 6 and more.  The current becoming so strong we worry it will take the heavy table away.  Someone finally decides to inspect the tents, braving the torrential, but warm, rain.  He comes back asking who is in tent number seven?  With hearts sinking we realize our tent must be under water – all our belongings within.  We (they are two-person tents) run to see what is going on.  At least 6-8” (15-20 cm) of water is inside, everything semi-afloat in the dark brown soup swirling around. 

We need assistance moving the tent away from the temporary river, so we can check the extent of the damage.  Two people come to help us drag the tent to higher grounds, one at each corner.  Everything is more damp than wet – thank goodness for good waterproof backpacks.  One computer however was in water – it will take a couple of days to see if it has survived the assault, which it did surprisingly enough. 

We hang everything inside the yellow over-lander bus (our lorry called Pluto), covering every seat, each possible nail, hook, and space.  The inside turning into a sauna from all the humidity and heat.  We are offered a new tent, clean mattresses, and heavy blankets for the night.  We are dry and warm, but sleep doesn’t come easily, the adrenaline still rushing through our system. 

The rain eventually stops, the sounds of crickets returning slowly as our surroundings dry up.  Hoping the roads, drenched by this torrential rain are passable comes morning so we can continue our Maasai Mara safari.

Earlier in the day I had said I wished to see a thunderstorm in wild Africa.  A co-traveler was playing the Toto song, ‘I bless the rains down in Africa’. 

A reminder to be careful what you wish for.

What a way to start this African journey!  Taking it in stride, a beautiful morning awaits the following day.  Even though it will take three days to clean and dry everything, we are blessed with clear air, beautiful skies, frisky and happy animals enjoying the fresh water, and lots of mud…

Stunning colors and peace