Bleeding History, Art and Charm – Guanajuato

Truth suffers but never perishes

Mexican Proverb

Only in a town honoring Don Quixote can you find windmills as Holiday Decorations

El Teatro Juarez and a partial moon.

There is a sense of adventure that comes from not having definite plans so here I come, barely prepared, to live in Guanajuato for 4-5 months.  Right away I am surrounded by history, art, and welcomed by the amazing kindness and charm of the locals.  Let this new journey begin.

On the way to my homestay I was told we couldn’t reach it all the way by car.  I had to walk a bit as the alley near the home was for pedestrians only.  As we meandered our way as close as we could, I couldn’t believe the narrowness of the street we were driving on.  Only one, yes, I said one inch to spare, on each side of the car, especially when turning corners.  The sidewalks go from non-existent up to six feet wide and are often protected by heavy bollards as many vehicles try to drive on the sidewalks when things get tight therefore being too dangerous for pedestrians.  You must be a good or crazy driver to make it around this city.  I, for one, wouldn’t want to do it.

No room for pedestrians, hardly room for side mirrors… 

See all the scratches on the right wall?  Many local cars lack side mirrors…

The early morning bells of the old cathedral brings me back to what I think would be medieval times.  The bell is cracked or too old for it sounds hollow and muffled.  I count 19 dings and it is 7:15am – I’m not sure I understand their counting system.  No matter where you are in this beautiful city, you hear the bells of some temple, cathedral, chapel, or church. 

El Pipila on a ridge behind an old cupola of the Templo de San Diego de Alcala

El Pipila is so famous he is represented everywhere

I live right below the famous statue of El Pipila, the real or imagined hero of Guanajuato, making it easy to find my way home each time I go exploring the city – you can catch a glimpse of it/him from just about anywhere in town.  The man who, through his brave actions achieved the first victory of the Mexican Independence struggle, becoming a folk hero ever since.  It is twenty meters tall and made of pink sandstone. 

There are a few theories about the name Pipila which means ‘turkey’.  One is that our hero had a gimp and walked like one, the other is that his freckles looked like the dots on turkey feathers, another similar one was that his face was marked with chicken pox, the last one that he laughed like a turkey.  Mexicans love to give people nicknames and many have more than one, often three to five.  It can get a little difficult to follow certain conversations when people change from one nickname to another when referring to someone.  His true name:  Juan Jose de Los Reyes Martinez.  He was Guanajuato’s favorite son.

Street art – this one by Roberta Wilde - http://www.artindeath.com

It was built in 1953, the same year the famous El Cervantino Festival began.  Listed as the fourth largest cultural festival in the world.  It is a direct tribute to Miguel de Cervantes, the writer of Don Quixote de la Mancha.  Over 50 theaters participate, and the streets are filled with art, dance, music, living statues, etc.  The city has a Cervantes obsession even though he never visited.  One museum here has the most representations of Don Quixote than anywhere else in the world, or about 900 pieces.  They love to claim it is the most translated book in the world, but statistics show it is the 11^th, still a very well-known book worldwide.

When French surrealist André Breton came to visit Mexico, he said:

‘There is no need for our art movement in this country.

Surrealism is a way of life here.’

Founder is Eulalio Ferrer Rodriguez in 1987

Each Thursday, you can enjoy a concert in the courtyard of the museum

We can’t talk about Guanajuato without noting that its university hosts 17,000-21,000 students or approximately 10-12% of GTO’s population!  Another reason this city is always full of art, activities, and constant energy.   (I read newer statistics after writing this article that quote upwards of 34,000 students in the many campus in and around town! - Either way, a huge influence.)

Universidad is Spanish for university

Univerciudad is a made of word for univercity 

Wordplay showing the significant student influence

Guanajuato means place of the frogs or frog hill.  This area is too dry to have frogs but maybe frog shape rocks where religious rites were carried out were found in the countryside.  I see frogs on doors, planters, fences, in parks, etc.  

Wet streets at night

A frail afternoon rain has turned into a gusher.  I am told this is the dry season and that it is quite unusual at this time of the year, but I in five weeks, I have witnessed two such events so far.  It quickly returns to dry like toast, everything cleaner and more colorful.

Still a little wet

Small café on a bridge between buildings

After the rain

Hidalgo Market clock tower – was first built as train station but never used that way

Stacking warm tortillas for customer at Mercado Hidalgo

No true Mexican city is without an old local market.  In Mexico City, it was designed by the famous Mr. Eiffel, but here, the persistent rumors of such creator are false.  Mercado Hidalgo was named after one of the four people who helped start the Mexican Independence fight against Spain.   

Alhondiga de Granaditas

Alhondiga de Granaditas: Granary and public grain exchange from 1798 to 1809, then match and cigarette factory followed by jail for nearly 100 years, and finally regional museum.  It also contains a spacious central courtyard where grain exchanges took place among farmers and merchants.  Stairway next to it is a wonderful place for viewing various events.  It can accommodate a large amount of people.

The Hidalgo ‘Head’ corner

With only small protective windows in each storage room, it accommodated 300-600 loyalists and 24 women (to make the tortillas to feed them) taking refuge against the insurgency.  They were no match to the 20,000 rebels who assaulted this heavy fortress.  It was the site where the first great victory over the Spanish took place in 1810.  It is considered the cradle of Mexico’s Independence from Spain.  However, a bit later, the decapitated heads of insurrectionists: Hidalgo, Allende, Almada and Jimenez were hung in cages at the four corners of the building and left there for ten years!  While symbols of the revolution, they were a grim reminder of what happens when you fight the system!  It is now the Regional Museum of Guanajuato.   

Representation of l’Alhondiga de Granaditas when it was a cigarette and match factory

Old train station but also park and outside market

Old water fountain.  Before running water, each neighborhood had them.

Families would fill up their jugs to bring home

Typical alley – also with old water fountain

Blue cupola, blue sky

Old plaza with fountain and junipers

From same old plaza, a sculpture by the road

Due to being nestled in a narrow ravine straddled by the 6,700’ sierras of central Mexico, the town is made of a web of labyrinthian Escher-like alleys, arched bridges, hidden staircases upon concealed ones, upon plazas of assorted sizes and shapes lined with well-trimmed ancient laurel trees.  Almost like a mandala, not meant to get out of.  Staircases are, at times, more than 30% incline, not for the faint of heart, especially if you are not used to the altitude of over a mile!  It is a compact walkable city.  Houses are like colorful toy building blocks barely holding to the hills.  Your eyes get drunk from scanning the colorful horizon.  Part of the magic are the tunnels taking away the noisy smelly vehicles.  Guanajuato is home to more than 3,000 callejons (alleys) and 8km of tunnels.  Guanajuato is often compared to a richer version of Brazil’s favelas or to Toledo, Spain.

Simply colorful

And shaggy at times…

Artistic reminder of a mining history

It was the richest mining town in the world in its heyday when people were said to ‘wallow in wealth’.  That wealth is still visible in all the amazing buildings found around this beautiful town.  Legend has it the town was so rich the churches were built with mortar made of silver powder and Spanish wine.  Silver produced here was more than all of Peru which at the time was the second largest producer of silver, between the two countries, they supplied 80% of the world’s silver. 

In its colonial architecture, Guanajuato hosts a bewildering profusion of styles a fantasist would die for: Churrigueresque, Doric, French Rococo, Italian Baroque, and Moorish.  

Ruins everywhere – some growing cacti on top

The best example is without a doubt the famous Teatro Juarez (first photo of this post).  It is a neoclassical eclectic tour de force and easily the most architecturally stunning building in Guanajuato. Built on the ruins of a convent of Discalced (barefoot) Franciscans, it exemplifies where Ancient Rome meets the Orient and it feels like you are entering the world of the Arabian Nights when you come in.

It was inaugurated in 1903 by then president Porfirio Diaz.  It opened with Aida by Giuseppe Verdi and we just celebrated its 115 years with a fabulous rendition of the ballet Carmen.  It is said that at times, Placido Domingo gave impromptu performances here. 

It contains the following:

• 12 pillars = somewhat like the pantheons of Rome
• Art Nouveau and Moorish interior
• Stunning space of colored carved wood, precious metals and elaborate stainglass
• Wrought iron lampposts
• Two bronze lions flank each side
• Topped with eight bronze Greek mythology (muses) statues.  

I was not sure which of the nine muses was missing.  After a bit of research, I found that the muse of Love/Poetry (Erato) only appears as a miniature in the hand of another muse (Urania, muse of astronomy).  A few stories are given as to the reason for the 'missing muse'.  One is that the architect of the time didn’t think it would be symmetrical to have nine muses on the theater, another is that one accidently fell off the roof but there is also a rumor that she is in the basement of the theater (muses were cast in Ohio and the ninth muse arrived too late to be installed so she was stored away).  Which to believe?  Interestingly, the word museum originally meant ‘seat or shrine of the Muses’.  Muses remember things.  Luminaries of the past would bypass Mexico City and come straight to Teatro Juarez.

Urania (muse of astronomy) with celestial globe in hand

Erato (muse of love/poetry) on top of celestial glob

On the plaza or in front of the various theaters are mixtures of red, peach, and pink bougainvillea blossoms, feathers of dancers dressed in enough colors to make you blind, smoke from taco or elote (corn) stands, and sounds of people hoping for your business.  Lovers are fondly braiding themselves together in view of everyone, people read on the steps of the theater, endless selfies are taken.  Street dogs are sniffing for food, pigeons clean the streets of crumbs, an army of tunas (troubadour like singers) sing samples of what is to come that night, and more.  A wonderful place for people watching. 

There is much more to say about Guanajuato but for now I’ll just share that for about $45 I was entertained for six weeks.  I had the chance to see eleven movies, visit seven museums, hear five singing performances, watch three dance shows, one ballet, attend two art shows, two theater plays, one cooking class, one hockey game, some figure skating, a wine tasting and witnessed a couple of pilgrimages or religious celebrations around town.  One is always kept busy here and much of it is free or nearly free – very enjoyable.  The hardest past is deciding what to do next.  Where else can you be entertained nearly nightly for less about $7.50/week? 

Small restaurant’s entrance

Beso Negro (Black Kiss), pure dark chocolate drink, hot and very yummy - sinful

Not a true quinceanera - 15th birthday celebration for girls

Only dressed like one to be paid to have picture taken with her

Bored boy.  Mom is selling clothes, he waits